/*23 Breaths: March 2015*/

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Philaes' Travels

Met up with matters,

Matt (born to it he is), Mattitude, and David Song on Saturday

"Meet you at Hotels..."

I knew I was getting close...

The problem being Huntington's "master plan"
allows for hotels from one end of town to the other
besides I'm looking toward the surf and have never
quite got the hotels figured out...

Which one is the Hilton? The little one? ok...

Fire rings are square in HB...

I eventually squinted thru my astigmatismatic haze and found them

and a decent south swell waiting for me

I took a few turns with Philaes, (nice mat G!)

and discussed the finer points of mat design with Matt and Mattitude.

The swell and side current has spread the group out so

I didn't see David until he showed up with camera to record the event.
(check Facebook for pics)

Still one of the great things about mat riding is that we actually like to see someone else riding the same surfcraft...

I mean how often do you hear board surfers say "Oh look other surfers...yippy!"

We are still living in the golden age of mat riding...

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

The Travels of Phileas

Graeme is as generous as he is a talented surfmat designer / creator.

He made a new mat and sent it out to the surfmat community to have a go...

Such a beautiful gift

Have a read about the project here

at the his custom surfmats page

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Funny Story

So I have this thing I do

when I go surf

mostly like everyone does

coffee, drive, park, check it, suit up and go

my personal twist

is between the check it

and suit up phase

I pretend that it's the 1950's and there is no one else there

the beach in totally deserted

I have to admit that after removing my glasses

and inserting the earplugs

it's not a huge stretch ...

So there I am

"in the 50's"

when back in the present

someone is calling my name...

Either I'm getting good at this

or I really am deaf and blind

as I totally missed the fact

that one old friend and one new friend

were also suiting up two cars away!

I'm just not blending into this future as well as I'd like...

Monday, March 23, 2015


You have seen the shell

You read the book where Captain Nemo roams the depths in his wondrous submarine

You have bought the pass

(You mean you haven't bought your Nautilus Pass for this year's

San Diego Surf Film Festival yet?

Great movies, Great people, Great Food

and you are in San Diego...Good Times

Get a room and make a long weekend of it

Perfect start to the Summer)

But have you ever seen one eating cheese crackers?

The nautilus is a pelagic marine mollusc of the cephalopod family nautilidae, the sole extant family of the superfamily nautilaceae and of its smaller but near equal suborder, nautilina

Saturday, March 21, 2015

as the sunrises

a bit of south wind this morning
it must be the weekend

thousands of surfers will
trade dreams of
glassy tubes
for a plate of eggs
and coffee

I'm sitting on my porch
keeping and eye
on the cat
or is it the other way around?

Watching another Spring morning
as the sunrises

Friday, March 20, 2015

It's Spring

As I sit and watch the sun rise

It's a little chilly

this being the week after

and the week before

another spring heat wave

(yes temps in the 90's next week)

and I have to admit that I am

a touch confused with this

meteorological ripsaw

this spring.

normally we are given

to endless fog

with a touch of morning

south wind

but the plants seem to enjoy the heat

Who am I to question the weather?

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

It's Summer

Apparently we had our Spring

somewhere between Christmas and January 23rd...

and now it's Summer...

I have airbrushed the hordes away from the picture above

but a close look at the surf,

small with a touch too much south for this beach

yep it's Summer

not to mention it was 90 plus degrees ...

A bit of serendipity on the trip back to the car,

I ran into a previously unknown fellow mat rider,

that in itself an noteworthy event...

but then

he blew my mind when he whipped out this alt surfcraft

Hand crafted, honey comb core Paipo

Shaped by Mike Marshall, local hero and shaper for Harbour Surfboards

My pics (as usual) fail to capture the awesome contours in this craft but you could tell that Mike knew what he was doing when he made this one...

A very auspicious start to the summer to be sure...

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

What's the holdup?"

In the pre dawn
I spoke to the cat
I explained about Benjamin Franklin
about daylight savings
saving lamp oil
about more light in the evenings
I even mentioned
that coyotes were waiting in the dark
down at the corner
all he did
was look at his
and say
"You let me out last week at 6:23
It's 6:30 now
What's the holdup?"

Monday, March 9, 2015

Let me tell the second mother this has been done

Spring arrives (Offically) March 20th

more or less

temperatures forecast

to be in the upper 80's

and hitting 90 degrees on Saturday

a fair amount of south in the swell too

all kinda early...

maybe someone gave

our blue marble a nudge

perhaps we have put too much carbon in the atmosphere

I saw the whales migrating over the weekend

if they start boarding spaceships

and heading to another planet

we'll know we are in trouble