/*23 Breaths: beyond description */

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

beyond description

to be fair
when I first started surfing
I was young
and inexperienced 
in the ways of the world
and
I was seduced

the sun increased my supply of vitamin D 
by a process known as dermal synthesis
whilst
tanning my hide
and 
bleaching my hair

the salt water
twisted and stretched my young body
in new ways
while it tossed me
like a dog
with a new toy

the surf
demanded that I
give up the illusion
of control
and learn to go
with the flow

late night and early morning
low clouds
a 1 2 3 foot
swell
running from the south west
for the next
100 days...

The first commandment of surfing is
after you paddle out 
I'm going to teach you to swim,
at least in the days before the leash...
by the end 
of which ever summer it was
I was in pretty good shape
and stoked 
beyond 
description

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