As much as I like the mat as a super adaptive surf vehicle,
which it is!,
I may like it just as much for the post surf endorphin rush.
(Endorphins are endogenous opioid polypeptide compounds. They are produced by the pituitary gland and the hypothalamus in vertebrates during strenuous exercise, excitement, and orgasm, and they resemble the opiates in their abilities to produce analgesia and a sense of well-being. Thank you Wiki!)
We have been having a good run of surf.
(A new record for the amount of sea water draining from my sinus' post session!)
But now we are back to the usual stuff and it's still a blast!
Both pictures blatantly borrowed from Kaser's website Daily Bread.
I am goin' scream if I keep having the same conversation out in the water.
It starts more or less like this.
"Goin' retro with a mat?"
"Goin' really old school with the surfmat!"
The reason I think these comments are odd is that I that today's surfmats are the most progressive of a long line of surf vehicles.
I have to explain that with a mat you can reshape your vehicle as needed to meet the changing shape of the wave.
Gotta love it!
Or to put it another way
"To surf free friction, or fin free, primarily forces the surfer back to the core. It is an act of homage to thousands of years of wave riding. It’s a return to an unpredictable wild side in a sea of conservatism. It is a test of composure in delivering the upper hand to nature. Most of all though it’s just a frontier feeling of being untethered and unguided that brings fun to the fore. And fun IS the key."