stranded in paradise

so here we are stranded

in a sense
but still
as free
as we allow ourselves to be

I can't tell you
the month
the date
or even
the day of the week
but judging from
the sun
the pollen
and the amount of light
and the fact
that I haven't
worn socks
for a while
I'm going to say
it's Spring
I wouldn't say
summer yet
we haven't had
enough "false summer"
hot spells followed by cold
or even rain
and without
fog for a month
I wouldn't know
what summer
looked like

I would like to write
or left
about surfing
not so much.

there are waves

I have been
collecting, grading and curating if you will
the waves along this coast
since I learned how
years ago.

I can tell you
with 100 percent certainty
that there is something
and it could be good
and it's probably windy
good wind? bad wind?
who can tell?

but whatever it is

it's probably fun on a mat

but I have chosen to abstain

In my lifetime it has been
my privilege to have surfed
been run over by,
rag dolled,
been healed by,
and completely blown

countless waves

if I don't have
enough of whatever we get
out of surfing
stored up in my hump
by now
then whatever I'm chasing
in the waves
cannot be caught
with a board

So as we used to say
The only water I've been in
is the shower...

Come to think of it
I haven't taken a poop
without the cat watching
in a while either...


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