/*23 Breaths: nice new tattoo, what's it say? hmmm I don't think it's spelled that way... */

Monday, August 4, 2014

nice new tattoo, what's it say? hmmm I don't think it's spelled that way...

While the circus was in town just up the beach

two weeks running, must be come kind of a record

I decided that a brief dip in the brine was in order

My favorite wildly polluted river mouth / beach break

had ample parking

which on a Sunday morning in mid summer

was very odd

but the lack of surf

"The Curse of the Contest"

as it's known locally

had mellowed the local crowd.

Or maybe, after a hot and rowdy Saturday night partying

(the contest is in town)

They decided that the best option

was to make bail

skip the beach and go get some eggs

But with the sun rising over Saddleback I grabbed my mat and fins

and waded out...

right in the middle of a surf school

(two surf schools really, complete with videographer and photographer on the beach)

I know a lot of people dislike the schools

and we certainly have enough people surfing at this point

but depending on the waves that day

I love surfing in the middle of the school!

First I only get cut off the usual amount

which averages out  to every other wave

the difference being these people really "didn't see ya coming down bro"

And these people are STOKED!

None of that 10 to 20 years surfing stoke

"it would be good if ... (choose one or more) the waves were bigger, smaller, there was more north in the swell, the tide was higher or lower, it was offshore, I had my 6'2" instead of the 6'3"

No this is my first time standing up on a board stoke

100 percent pure, fresh and from the source!

I even managed to connect a few sections of a too south swell ...

good times


3 comments:

tuskedbeast said...

That's a good, positive take on them guys. Glad you had fun!

I surfed a place that had pullouts to check from a distance (couple of ks). More than once I surfed in a pack of timid/inept beginners and basically had my pick of waves. For certain, competent surfers that would have been in the lineup passed because of the apparent crowds.

Moral: there's crowds, and then there's CROWDS.

KingWaka said...

Well said Para! the learners and beginners still have THAT feel of stoke and fun that most surfers have forgotten, its all about high performance ripping and not just enjoying being in the ocean sharing some waves and fun with their fellow surfer!

pranaglider said...

Tuskie - crowds and CROWDS indeed...

KingWaka - being in the water is my favorite thing about surfing!