/*23 Breaths: April 2013*/

Friday, April 26, 2013

The mean ole nasty Wedge

The rider only identified as Boof the photographer remains unknown

The wedge riders are all crazy
to a man
and I include the women riders in both comments

But who cares for the surf mats?

Later on
at low tide
when they dig poor Boof 
out of the sand

out of the mau
of the sand monster
slowly digesting him
(seen distinctly in the right of the photo above)

will their first question be
"how is the mat?"


It will be 
we found one of your 
over there 
by the rocks
let's go have a beer

so I'm starting a fund
for the surf mats
send you money
to prana

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Here and Now at UKMS

Great stuff today over on the UK Mat Surfers site

You know when Kendog, Jamie McCellan and Graeme get together it will result in something interesting.

The photos are fantastic or should I say matastic and Jamie sharing his thoughts and travels is well worth the read.

Kendog not Jamie or Graeme

Go check it out

Monday, April 22, 2013

Boards from the rafters

I used to do a feature called "Boards from the Rafters" on my old surf blog. I would drag out one of my old logs snap a few pictures and then describe why I liked or didn't like the board. Now I ride mats and a photo of the outside doesn't quite capture the essence of the magic on the inside and you are reshaping the thing constantly as you surf it.

I was sorting thru some things in the garage and snapped some pics of the boards I used to ride before I discovered the surf mats.

Not quiet as "gunny" as this photo makes it look but if the need arises ...

I have certain criteria when I am looking for a board.
Expert craftsmanship and full functionality
over everything else,
no fiberglass slippers for riding the local beachy.
Something that floats, paddles well, turns nicely and can handle a bit of size and some juice
should the opportunity present itself.
The label doesn't say Aleutian Juice for nothing...

Being from the exacting house of Rusty
All the measurements are on  the stringer

Dave Parmenter makes insane boards and I really like this one.
7'2" long and 20 inches wide.
If you only had one board to ride in everything
the good days, the great days, the every days
this is the one

nose to tail shot
unless you are in a shaping bay with lights and can move the board
these pics never really capture the feeling of the rail, the roll and how well it all blends into the rocker.

I remember being really stoked to find this board in a local shop unridden.
This was the Vector-cuda variation of his wildly popular stub-vector model.

Aleutian Juice
Made in California to ride in California

I'm thinning the quiver of some of the better of the standup machines.  I have always thought boards, especially good boards were made to be ridden and not stashed away in someone's collection.

Condition wise this one is a 9 out of ten mostly because of the dust.

If you are interested in purchasing a fine hand crafted surfboard shoot me and email.

Friday, April 19, 2013

It's bicycle day

Originally posted on March 3, 2010

A glass breaks in the kitchen and I'm jolted awake in a manner only slightly less annoying that the time our two year old threw up on me. After fetching my wife her slippers and helping to clean up the glass I start my daily routine. Clothes, food, backpack but halfway through packing I realize it's Saturday and I don't have any appointments today. What do the unemployed do on their weekends? They go on bike rides. Of course! So I take my interview clothes out of the bag and replace them with my wetsuit, fins and inflatable surf mat. The bananas and water bottle can stay.

Instead of weaving the skinny tire bike between the cars to arrive at an appointment on time I will be weaving the fat tire bike between the slowly moving moguls consisting of tourists families visiting the beach for the day.

Initially this was just a was to spend less on gas but I have found numerous unknown sand bars that I would have driven right by in the car.  The front rack takes my dripping wetsuit without complaint and riding after surfing extends that delightful endorphin buzz you get after riding the mat. If all goes well I will find a few waves to surf if not I can ride the sea side bike path for miles.

Today the coast is covered in fog. At times it seems like I am the only one on the planet many of the streets are deserted . I peddle on my world an ever changing collection of sights and sounds wrapped in a cloud.

A little farther down the trail the clouds part to reveal two tourists, in the middle of the path, off their bike starring at the limp chair hanging off their rented tandem beach cruiser. While screaming “get out of the middle of the road!” at them was a option I chose to pull over to the side and ask what the problem.

I'm not a bike mechanic and I have only the most primitive of tools but for me part of the beauty of riding is an appreciation and understanding of the basic bicycle machine. The chain wasn't broken and I brought the chain back into alignment with the rest of the drive train. After wishing them a good day I remounted and continued along my way. Hopeful that I had helped someone else have a nice day on the bike and looking forward to enjoying my own ride.

I'm riding one of my “other” bike today, actually my other other other bike. I group my bikes as road bikes, off road bikes or additions to my collection of 1960's Schwinn three speeds. Today it's a Schwinn Breeze day. The road bikes are faster, the MTB's have a wider range of uses but a good Breeze on the bike trail is a thing of beauty! The glide, the steady, floating forward motion. If independence has a tactile feeling its riding a bike. Someday if that feeling isn't there for me I'll make one massive donation to the local charity and move on. But today, after a bit of morning fog, the sun is out and I'm out on the bike having fun.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

You aren't from around here are you?

 I finally scored this morning

A new spot I am calling Pillsbury Point.
Today was a solid 10-15 with bigger sets.  I would tell you where it is but then I would have to poke you in the stomach with my finger.

The point is ruled with an soft white buttery hand but an iron fist by a bunch of toughs that call themselves the "dough boys".

Actually nice guys once you get to know them.  They have an bad boy image due to crankiness caused by exposure to the heavily polluted waters of the point and the chronic yeast infections that result.  I could see Tom Wolfe doing an expose on these guys.   Pictures are hard to come by but here is a snap I wanted to share.

   Funny story, I thought this was a cool bro I had talked to before.  Turns out he was totally somebody else and  REALLY didn't want me to surf there. Yew!

* Coincidence? Nope I totally ripped off Steiny for the title of the post this morning. Check his blog here  Always good stuff

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Omni Sale

You want to go sideways in the soup? No problem. 
Just image what it can do in a real wave...

If you are interested in riding the most advanced surfcraft on the planet

Paul is having a sale on the Omni.

A limited time and limited quantities deal.

Jump on it!

Prana tested Prana approved!

Check out the details at Surmatters

He or she that hesitates is lost

Eight of the ten mats for sale at the sale price are gone.

I'm surprised that they lasted the day.

Monday, April 15, 2013

Just for a look

It was between the seasons
and the side shore winds
had been troublesome

Wasn't that the way it always goes
if the winds had laid down
there wouldn't have been any swell

There was swell
combo swells
as a matter of fact
but what to do about
the wind?

There was that one place
discovered in a late summer
camping trip
years ago

Not really a major point
but enough
a high headland
with a noticeable
out of the beach
to the north

But that took
two days hiking
at least
each way

Just for a look
at maybe a chance
of an uncrowded wave
with a semi smooth face

It was worth a shot...

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Spring is here

 the apple is blooming
 the wind is blowing
and the chard is growing 
big and green

Friday, April 12, 2013


let's me do this

while dreaming of this

or maybe this

and keeps me from having to haul around all of these

because it's easy to walk in 
with this

ok who wants to try it?

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

More is better

You want more hoedown pics?
You are an animal!

Here they are...