Once it was


it was my favorite time of the year
no school
early mornings
spent soaking
in the cool pacific brine
still the best treatment
for chronic sunburn
cause and treatment both
early drive thru
the state park gate
wave to the ranger
so the beach cleanup tractors (sandboni?)
hadn't removed yesterday’s debris
walking thru a mine field of trash and occasional treasure
for a quick paddle out and a few empty waves
always joined by a water brother or two
a surf session usually punctuated
by a wipeout
and the always pleasant bodysurf / swim in
leashes? what's that?
sometimes someone
a friend, a stranger
would grab your board
and caddy it out
or at least meet you
soon enough
the crowds fill in
people setting up big umbrellas
the sand wiped clean
ready for the next customer
3 dollar parking all day
the nameless faceless and relentless
summer hoards
or the wind would come up
and the day was reduced
to absorbing
stray rays


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