Good Evening

walking at the foot of the pier
stopping to check it (again)
waxing up
the timeless meditation of surfers

the sun going down
will it glass off?
the question of the ages
when you are seventeen
along with
is there swell?
and
what school do you go to?
boys and girls being
boys and girls

so as
planes
and trains
and the 91
ferry the tourists
hoards
whence they came

a final summer paddle out
surfing blowout crap
is an art
to be fair
I would usually
pass
on a craft
and just
bodysurf

The cool breeze and water
felt good on the
sunburn
I had been
nursing
since June
(my dermatologist is a very busy man)

the nice thing about
surfing junk is
it can be perfect
pipeline
not a drop
out of place
perfect
for a quarter of a second

your job is to be there