I watched them surf for hours

just sitting and watching from the shore

wave after wave

they rode the beautiful waves beautifully
they rode the big waves with strength and courage
they rode the little waves with great care and grace
and how they gently stroked the round insides of the hollow ones
it was obscene!

when they paddled in
I asked them,
how could you ride those waves
on a mat?

They smiled and replied

How could you not?


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