/*23 Breaths: November 2014*/

Sunday, November 23, 2014

Happy Thanksgiving

Every Thanksgiving and usually Christmas too, my parents drove my brother and I to my grandmothers house in Burbank for the requisite turkey, stuffing and cranberry dinner.

Each and every time it was hollowing offshore.

My older brother and I pleaded to stay home, "It's gonna be epic!".

Every time our pleas fell on the unsympathetic ears of non surfing parents and we went.


I might have even thrown a tantrum if I'd known how.

But we went and I wonder how many good waves we missed.

Thursday, November 20, 2014

so it's definitely fall...

I know that for certain
because I'm writing this post
and I'm writing this post
because I'm not playing guitar
and I'm not playing guitar
because my skin is cracked

(take a quick look at the inside of your left index finger
flex the finger
you see where it bends the most?
That first joint?
That's were my skin has cracked)

and because I am completely without skill or talent
I use barre chords
perfectly lining up the crack in my skin
with any number of steel strings
widening and quite painfully deepening the crack
with each pseudo bluesy strum

all of this because
it's fall
and the wind is offshore
and the humidity is effectively zero
and my crate paper skin is cold and dry
so it's definitely fall...

Friday, November 14, 2014


At approximately 3:23 am this morning

There was a MAJOR weather event in Southern California

It sprinkled

sort of

We will have on the spot reporting of the inevitable ...

carnage, traffic jams, mudslides, earthquakes, fires, raining toads

the kind of things that happen when Mother Nature

unleashes her fury down upon us

film at eleven...

I understand there is swell

PS nope that was just a raindrop on the Surfline Cam lens...