your job is to be there

 

a summer evening paddle out

surfing blowout crap

is an art

to be fair

I would usually

pass

on a craft

and just

bodysurf

The cool breeze and water

felt good on the

sunburn

I had been

nursing

since June

(my dermatologist is a very busy man)

the nice thing about

surfing junk is

it can be perfect

pipeline

not a drop

out of place

perfect

for a quarter of a second

your job is to be there