before it crushes you

 See that peak of white water on the other side

of the three guys paddling out?

That's the spot

a few moments ago

the epicenter, two separate swells

The westie crossing up the dominant south swell

occasionally, if you were in the right place at the right time

and if you can swim like a fish

and are well equated with the characteristics of the local rip current

you can get a stand up tube

to do with what you will

before it crushes you