a happy little mashup
as summer fast approaches we trade serious Winter wet suits for Spring suits and later just trunks and a tan we trade the northern hemi swells for the southern swells the change in swell direction the sand (hopefully) building up in all the right places a few seasonal sandbar changes I like to surf at a place I call outside in the middles a fictional place perhaps but read on The outside is where the dominant swell is breaking and like moths to a flame this is where all the "surfers" sit the longboarders, SUPers and kayakers sit a little farther out, of course Since it's always overhead on the mat size is no object so I sit at inside in the middles catching my choice of the crossed up dredging peaks a happy little mashup of all the other swells running breathing in breathing out








