your job is to be there
a summer evening paddle out surfing blowout crap is an art to be fair I would usually pass on a craft and just bodysurf The cool breeze and water felt good on the sunburn I had been nursing since June (my dermatologist is a very busy man) the nice thing about surfing junk is it can be perfect pipeline not a drop out of place perfect for a quarter of a second your job is to be there
