one of those days
I ventured out with low if any expectations at all June Gloom had SoCal in a vise grip of morning wind and grey sky's The marine layer was thick enough to require the use of intermittent wipers I was pleasantly surprised that it was relatively windless It had been weeks since I had gotten wet, too long to pass it up I suited up with out even checking the swell just planning on getting wet and going for a swim. As I started the walk in I was greeted with the site of a single A-Frame peak Was it a mirage? Is this what happens when you abruptly stop surfing for a spell? Some sort of salt water deficiency hallucination? I tread faster toward the surf hoping to see another peak The next set had some size but the swell direction was obviously too steep to produce that crossed up perfection I had seen earlier but it was glassy! I was close enough to the water now to notice something else strange even weirder than a lone peak There wasn't a soul out! I live in one of the most crowded...
