before it crushes you
See that peak of white water on the other side of the three guys paddling out? That's the spot a few moments ago the epicenter, two separate swells The westie crossing up the dominant south swell occasionally, if you were in the right place at the right time and if you can swim like a fish and are well equated with the characteristics of the local rip current you can get a stand up tube to do with what you will before it crushes you
