23 Breaths

my favorite part
could be the approach

every session
is perfect
soon to be
epic
during
that part
between locking
the car
sometimes with my keys inside
sometimes not
and that
first wave

nothing but
giddy
euphoria

Maybe that's why
I like to
stretch it out

if you walk in
you have made
the sacrificial offering
undertaken the voyage
paid the toll
and the piper

once you start
surfing
it can be
anything

too much
swell
wind
crowd
cramp
bad luck

or

not enough
swell
tide
wax
good luck

but from the car
to the water
it's perfect