/*23 Breaths*/

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

The Anthem

for the new


Revolution


Be Kind

Always




Tuesday, June 19, 2018

not enough beach

I used to surf on the south side of the pier.

Good waves

I've surfed there more times than I can count

I pretty much spent my entire teenage years waiting for the waves to wedge up next to the pier

I don't surf there much anymore

There are other places

Maybe less crowded, maybe not

But the whole thing, the circus if  you will

is just a bit too much for me to make sometimes.

Huntington is the epicenter of the surf industrial complex



The tee shirts,

the thousands of seemingly soul less machine shaped blanks

milled within a milligram of each other identical in every regard

(ever wonder why the kids spray paint a happy face on 'em?)

glassed too well

Not a mat in sight I might add...

Then there is the tourist industry

I full swing in and around the Pier

the vendors of miscellaneous surf and non surf related crap.

On Oahu the North Shore was county and the South Shore was town

In California HB is defiantly town

As I have come to think of it

Too much Huntington and not enough beach

Friday, June 15, 2018

Meanwhile back in the lab ...


actually out back by the stables

Just so you don't think I have been frittering away my time last winter and not contributing anything to the general mat riding community

I give you...

the mat pack horse!





These animals have been bred in the lab especially to carry my mat and fins deep into remote surfing areas.

The whole project was born out of the frustration of finding a decent wet / dry pack to hold all my stuff.

If I only could of had one of these little beasts back in the day!

Sneaking into Trestles* would have been a whole new ball game.

These little buggers are nimble as a minks and live on hay and a splash of water.

CAUTION do not give them Red Bull!

I spent hours watching them crash into the walls like some sort of defective Roomba vac on crack!

Sadly I had to stop work on that project but I have been working on another idea...



*Yes, you used to have to sneak into Trestles. It was up hill both ways and there was snow...

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Pop Proctor the Duke of Doheny



 Pop-Proctor the Duke of Doheny

During a bout of nocturnal internet wandering I came across the article in the link above.

Very good stuff

When people talk about "Real Water men" or Water women for that matter.

This is what they mean.

No contest no endorsements no BS

It's not a lifestyle it's a life

“The best way to stay alive is to stay afloat.”

Monday, June 11, 2018

Hey Bud, vamos de fiesta!

Tropical storm Aletta (green blob on the left) is continuing to weaken

Hurricane Bud (multi color blob on the right) looks like it will make landfall in Baja.

If it gets a little more west it might swell up those spots that need a south east swell

Hey Bud let's party!

Friday, June 8, 2018

the summer solstice

as the summer solstice fast approaches
we trade winter wet suits for "Spring Suits"
and later just trunks and a tan
we also swap the northern hemi swells
for the southern swells
that light up a thousand points, sand bars and beach breaks
and of course
the mean ole nasty Wedge

the crowd shifts too
sometimes from break to break
sometimes just from here to overthere
occasionally from
outside in the middles
to just
outside!


any way you slice it
the days you have
will be the days
you were meant to have
and the days between are
a dash of random chance
thrown in for spice

Monday, June 4, 2018

Garden of Waves



so I garden a bit
To be fair
The plants do all the work
I water a little
I live on the coastal edge of a large dry desert
so water is precious

So why a gardening post on a "surf blog"?
good question
and I'm so glad you asked...

It's a parallel universe really

We "surfers" ride waves
distant storm winds push the water
swells are created
they travel
they break on the local beaches
and entire industries are created to capture
the lifestyle of riding
"dat bugga"

Gardeners are dependent
on waves too
light waves travel from the sun
over great distances
that plants use to turn
water and carbon dioxide
into glucose
photosynthesis
from light comes life

no nose ride
no three turns
to the beach
there are t shirts
at least there is the rag trade
so there is that

but actually life on this planet
is dependent on rain and six inches of topsoil

so surfers use waves
gardeners use waves

Same thing

Gardening should be an Olympic sport
Just like surfing

So as you go about your day
remember that
energy is traveling about you
in many waves of different wavelengths
most of it we can't perceive
that's a good thing
it would be a lot to take in


but it's all waves

surf it as you will

Friday, June 1, 2018

John Muir



"The scenery of the ocean, however sublime in vast expanse, seems far less beautiful to us dry-shod animals than that of the land seen only in comparatively small patches; but when we contemplate the whole globe as one great dewdrop, striped and dotted with continents and islands, flying through space with other stars all singing and shining together as one, the whole universe appears as an infinite storm of beauty."
John Muir.

Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Good Ole Yesterday


Some waves at the pier
1948
a nice summer
south swell



the new cat was not impressed
we call her spot (I don't know why)


dig it


There are times when I would like to say something deep on 23B
to point out some sub Atomic truth
that just by hearing the words
would enlighten the general population ...

 but this morning
I can't tell if it's Monday or Tuesday
so you aren't going to hear it from me...

Enjoy the dayy

Friday, May 25, 2018

Pre Big Weekend Noku


Sitting in the morning fog
The cat on my lap purring hard
I listen for the sounds of surf

But it’s only work calling