23 Breaths

  I have shaken off the winter malaise Waking up to blinding sun shine first thing in the morning That smell of summer, part coastal sage, part hot asphalt, part Coppertone I call the surf report and hear for the 100th time, "there is a south west swell running from 2 to 3 feet" My hair has bleached out to snow white with the consistency of dry straw How many days the water temperate will stay above 70 before plunging down the chilly 50's with the arrival of a big south swell. I wear the same clothes, trunks, flip flops and t shirt until people start asking if these are the only clothes I own. I need to decide if I am going to surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both just like yesterday and the day before. I have forgotten what day of the week it is. I quit my job because, "this could be the biggest swell of the summer!" and they can't give me the time off. My significant other tells me that I am getting too much sun and really need to apply m...