I need it to be summer

 

Water color by John Severson

I need to shake off this winter malaise

I need to wake up to blinding sun shine first thing in the morning

I need that smell of summer, part coastal sage, part hot asphalt, part Coppertone

I need to call the surf report and hear for the 100th time, "there is a south west swell running from 2 to 3 feet"

I need my hair to bleach out to snow white with the consistency of dry straw

I need to wonder how many days the water temperate will stay above 70 before plunging down the chilly 50's with the arrival of a big south swell.

I need to wear the same clothes, trunks, flip flops and t shirt until people start asking if these are the only clothes I own.

I need to decide if I am going to surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both just like yesterday and the day before.

I need to forget what day of the week it is.

I need to go to the surf movies and know the California crew by first name, the Hawaiian crew by surfing style alone and have thought to myself "hey I was out that day!" at least several times during the movie.

I need to quit my job because, "this could be the biggest swell of the summer!" and they can't give me the time off.

I need to have my significant other tell me that I am getting too much sun and really need to apply more sun screen.

I need to have surfed so many days in a row that I seriously think about taking a day off. (and then don't).

I need to have ordered a new mat at the beginning of summer and have ridden it enough to think of it as my old mat and have ordered another one.

I need to be surfing just before dark and think to myself "just one more wave" and spend another hour and a half in the water.

I need it to be summer.