breathing in breathing out

 

 as the summer fast approaches

we trade serious Winter wet suits for Spring suits

and later just trunks and a tan

we also swap the northern hemi swells

for the southern swells

the change in swell direction 

the sand (hopefully) building up in all the right places

a few seasonal position changes

I like to surf at a place I call outside in the middles

a fictional place perhaps but read on

The outside is where the dominant swell is breaking

and like moths to a flame this is where all the "surfers" sit

the longboarders, SUPers and kayakers 

sit a little farther out, of course

Since it's always overhead on the mat

size is no object

so I sit at inside in the middles

catching my choice

of the crossed up dredging peaks

a happy little mashup 

of all the other swells running

breathing in breathing out