Spring Zoo
Spent the day at the world famous
San Diego Zoo on Monday
a fabulous day
If SD every has a bad day of weather
someone please mail me a picture
because every day I'm there
it's perfect!
So no surf on Monday
but it did look like there was swell
checking those spots
one can check from the freeway
We are in that
between the seasons time
when swell direction can vary
dramatically from day to day
I was out the other day
just getting wet really
surfing the shore break
only a couple of people out
when outside
a NICE PEAK
started to form
I put my head down
and paddled / kicked
with everything I had
the wave was a nice wedge of
two complementary swells meeting
on a clandestine date
to merge
and I wanted to be in the middle of it
I figured I would be too far inside
to be in great position
but I could catch the left
and have a nice shoulder
to cry on
just as I got into position
the damn thing pitched!
me and my mat went
"ass over tin cup"
as they used to say
summer may not be here
but it's sending feelers
Which brings us to Bad Haiku Tuesday
San Diego Zoo on Monday
a fabulous day
If SD every has a bad day of weather
someone please mail me a picture
because every day I'm there
it's perfect!
So no surf on Monday
but it did look like there was swell
checking those spots
one can check from the freeway
We are in that
between the seasons time
when swell direction can vary
dramatically from day to day
I was out the other day
just getting wet really
surfing the shore break
only a couple of people out
when outside
a NICE PEAK
started to form
I put my head down
and paddled / kicked
with everything I had
the wave was a nice wedge of
two complementary swells meeting
on a clandestine date
to merge
and I wanted to be in the middle of it
I figured I would be too far inside
to be in great position
but I could catch the left
and have a nice shoulder
to cry on
just as I got into position
the damn thing pitched!
me and my mat went
"ass over tin cup"
as they used to say
summer may not be here
but it's sending feelers
Which brings us to Bad Haiku Tuesday
first south wedges
summer explodes
too far outside
I am learning "not to share" so maybe we can stop the bad haiku's in the future
but maybe not
But onward to a great internet,
in this case Facebook, find
The following shot was swiped from
Kevin "Mel" Thoman's Facebook page
It's a shot of the Wedge crew during the 70's
Men of iron those Wedge guys
Thanks Mel!
(what are "friends" for)
Check the mat just right of center
(it has fins attached!)
YooHooo
Comments