things are opening up - again

originally posted May 27 2020 

they did open up
then things got worse 
then things got a lot worse 
now things are getting better 
let's not blow it again 
I'm getting tired of this

 



Morning fog
South wind
Clearing in the afternoon
I don't rightly know
what day it is
but we must be getting close
to June
and then Summer

I'll let a few go by first
but then
the sirens call...
two to three foot
swells
coming from the South West
a swell period of something in the mid teens
water temps in the high sixties
you know temps that make you want
take your time and
wade into it

savoring ...
the rising tide
so to speak


The first thing I'm going do
is duck dive a set
no fins
no mat
just the waves
me
and the jelly fish


Something about
the total immersion
my ears pop
and I'm completed surrounded
by the brine
Nirvana


Under normal conditions
I usually surf
a place I call
outside in-the-middles
it can be good
but it hangs off
one of the most polluted
river mouths around
well at least
top five
there is SO MUCH
competition
for the title
of most polluted
in these parts



at least it's not
the rain and mudslide season
anymore

* 2021 update
there was almost no rainy season this year
a handful of days with less that an inch
leaving us with half a normal years rain
The Sierras didn't do any better 
The snow pack is about 60% of normal
So we are setting up for another
drought year

which usually means
a bad fire season
in these parts

at least I'll have a mask

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