I need it to be summer

Water color by John Severson

I need to shake off this winter slumber

I need to wake up to blinding sun shine first thing in the morning

I need that smell of summer, part coastal sage, part hot asphalt, part Coppertone

I need to call the surf report and hear for the 100th time, "there is a south west swell running from 2 to 3 feet"

I need my hair to bleach out to snow white with the consistency of dry straw

I need to wonder how many days the water temperate will stay above 70 before plunging down the chilly 50's with the arrival of a big south swell.

I need to wear the same clothes, trunks, flip flops and t shirt until people start asking if these are the only clothes I own.

I need to decide if I am going to surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both just like yesterday and the day before.

I need to forget what day of the week it is.

I need to go to the surf movies and know the California crew by first name, the Hawaiian crew by surfing style alone and have thought to myself "hey I was out that day!" at least several times during the movie.

I need to quit my job because, "this could be the biggest swell of the summer!" and they can't give me the time off.

I need to have my significant other tell me that I am getting too much sun and really need to apply more sun screen.

I need to have surfed so many days in a row that I seriously think about taking a day off , and then don't.

I need to have ordered a new board at the beginning of summer and have ridden it enough to think of it as my old board and have ordered another one.

I need to be surfing just before dark and think to myself "just one more wave" and spend another hour and a half in the water.

I need it to be summer.

Comments

captor said…
Sigh...It has been a good life. I want more, too! Thanks for the nostalgia and the thought of more to come!
Paul Gross said…
Thanks for reviving this surfmatimage, 23B...one of my favorites of all time!
pranaglider said…
Captor - Glad you liked it. It's time to breath in that scent of summer one more time!

Paul - One of my favorites too. Severson gave us all quite a gift with his artwork.

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