Apple and squash season

sort of a long one today
meet you at the end

It has been long enough since my last go out
not sure just how long
but my booties were dry
so yes,
too long.

I can't really say what motivated me
I was happily seven chapters into the latest Pynchon book
(very good BTW)
feet up, hot cup of tea at the ready
when suddenly I had that urge
tugging me shoreward.

Fall
which I have mentioned before
is really the best time of Summer

But different

The morning was cold
and I arrived at the beach
in a sweat shirt, Uggs and a hat
I had jeans on as well... get your minds out of the gutter

and the change into my wetsuit
was a tad chilly
the wind was off shore

as it turned out
that really didn't seem
to help the swell
out much

I love the Fall
perfect conditions
the water is still warm
and no swell

the walk up
to elevensies
was cut short

way too crowded
for this little
surf

so between
tower 15 and tower 13
at a spot I christened
fourteenies, I don't know why
I paddled out

The Omni with drop pontoons
came alive on a couple
of good ones

when the ride
is indistinguishable
from flying

because that's
what it is

flying