As I mentioned in a previous post I was able to get into the water last weekend.
It had been a while and I was happy to enjoy the warm air and glassy surf conditions.
I paddled out along the state beach in a place with a small peak and a relativity small crowd of three.
I had gotten a couple when we were joined by a couple of grimmies.
Grimmies being a historical term now. Having been replaced by the term grommets in general usage.
(although Kook is making a comeback and has some slightly different connotations)
These two young surfers had all the signs of just starting out.
Boogie boards (yes I still call them that) ill fitting wetsuits and one pair of fins shared between the two.
New to the sport
That said, they seemed to be having as much fun as anyone out.
It made me ponder
I know that I,
now that way back then
But do I have more fun?
Has the overcrowding
and the competition for dwindling resources
so evident on land
spread to the sea
and robbed us
of that most cherished dream
“seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.”