As I mentioned in a previous post I was able to get into the water last weekend.

It had been a while and I was happy to enjoy the warm air and glassy surf conditions.

I paddled out along the state beach in a place with a small peak and a relativity small crowd of three.

I had gotten a couple when we were joined by a couple of grimmies.

Grimmies being a historical term now.  Having been replaced by the term grommets in general usage.

(although Kook is making a comeback and has some slightly different connotations)

These two young surfers had all the signs of just starting out.

Boogie boards (yes I still call them that) ill fitting wetsuits and one pair of fins shared between the two.

New to the sport

That said, they seemed to be having as much fun as anyone out.

Maybe more.

It made me ponder

I know that I,
surf better
now that way back then

But do I have more fun?

Has the overcrowding
and the competition for dwindling resources
so evident on land
spread to the sea
and robbed us
of that most cherished dream

“seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.”


Unknown said…
Great post. Was it GG wgho said somewhere he would rather surf lousy uncrowded waves than perfect crowded waves?
pranaglider said…
Thanks Briney! I have been pondering the question, If surfing was any more fun after all the decades that it was originally for a while. Regarding your quote, that sounds like something GG would say, based on the rumors surrounding him.
old surfer said…
Nice observation as I am thinking as i get more "retro" not older! that maybe in the surf we concern ourselves with the perception of others as to how we look or what we are using and to ourselves as to how we think we should be performing when really the grimmies have got it right enjoy each experience for what it is ,pleasure at doing something you want to do and not what you are being paid for or told to do.
Gosh that was a bit deep for me but hey you do come up with some good thoughts and musings at times thanks.
pranaglider said…
OS - I think you are spot on. For me it's the perfect example of Suzuki Roshi's "Beginners Mind". Every surf that's what I try to get back to.
Jack said…
"The best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun.".....Tom Curren

On a more serious note; it's Gremmies not Grimmies....You Hodad.
Thanks for the great blog.

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