Perhaps

 

Pendo making magic

I am sitting here in the pre dawn chill staring at maps

maps of the planet showing the remnants of dead storms

and it gives me pause to think what an interesting mash up surfing really is

Storms putting some of their enormous energy into waves that travel thousands of miles

The continental shelf suddenly sloping up from the seafloor meeting a shoreline, a remnant of the worn 

mantle pushed up, temporarily above sea level 

Shapers building a model of a 3D wing to ride some future waves in a advantageous fashion

Glassers and sanders take the model and encase it in fiberglass, giving it strength, longevity and edges

The whole package picked up by some sea side waif, induced to surf for reasons unknown

hundreds or thousand of waves under his or her belt

and it all comes together in an instant

perhaps a bottom turn
a flash of speed