So I went

So it came to pass

I would venture out

into whatever season it was

and partake in the saline goodness

As promised

"no one out",

perhaps the three most

inviting words

in the surfing

vocabulary

but in socal

it usually means

trouble.

Today

the swell

had not been reading

it's own press clippings

and was,

well,

uninspiring.

Every once in a while

these sideways

lefts

would push

across

the inside sandbar

and be fun.

So I went