Fall is the new Summer

Fall has been a local favorite for a long time

The days are warm 

the water is warm

swells come from the north and the south

and school is back in session!

As I was walking out the the super secret mysto break know only as HQ

(which has been pumping btw)

I was thinking about why I ride a mat.

I have a garage full of boards gathering dust for the most part, time to have a garage sale really.

But after some consideration I have come to the conclusion that matting takes everything that got me hooked on wave riding in the first place and condensed it down into it most basic form.

The glide

the speed

the water

the play.

Surfing today is just as much fun as it was that first day surfing the shore break at Huntington Pier.

I don't think it's just me.

I use this shot a lot. 

A super stoked young lady, enjoying surfing for maybe the first time.

She could very well be the world mat champion of 2023.

Photo by Ken

Here's JJ screaming thru a cutback on a mat of his own design and construction.

Same super stoked look on his face!

More that a few years in the water separate these two.

JJ is a highly skilled waterman.

The point is the stoke is as strong as ever

Fall is the new Summer