The Golden West

Two pictures separated by a half a dozen decades and a few thousand waves 

A convergence of marine Ley lines made this strip able to pull in both NW and SW swells

To be fair the waves can be a little walled 

which is great if you 

really like to paddle

against a strong side shore current

while taking a dozen sets 

on your head.

All in a days work

show up early

park free all day

surf the morning glass

get out and walk down to Taco Bell reef

for lunch

no taco no bell and no reef anymore

then walk back for another go out

the next day

rinse and repeat

Years later

I found out about a place up north

that handles the southerly swells 

quite well

they call it

Malibu

and besides a bit of a crowd

it's a nice little wave