nice new tattoo, what's it say? hmmm I don't think it's spelled that way...
While the circus was in town just up the beach
two weeks running, must be come kind of a record
I decided that a brief dip in the brine was in order
My favorite wildly polluted river mouth / beach break
had ample parking
which on a Sunday morning in mid summer
was very odd
but the lack of surf
"The Curse of the Contest"
as it's known locally
had mellowed the local crowd.
Or maybe, after a hot and rowdy Saturday night partying
(the contest is in town)
They decided that the best option
was to make bail
skip the beach and go get some eggs
But with the sun rising over Saddleback I grabbed my mat and fins
and waded out...
right in the middle of a surf school
(two surf schools really, complete with videographer and photographer on the beach)
I know a lot of people dislike the schools
and we certainly have enough people surfing at this point
but depending on the waves that day
I love surfing in the middle of the school!
First I only get cut off the usual amount
which averages out to every other wave
the difference being these people really "didn't see ya coming down bro"
And these people are STOKED!
None of that 10 to 20 years surfing stoke
"it would be good if ... (choose one or more) the waves were bigger, smaller, there was more north in the swell, the tide was higher or lower, it was offshore, I had my 6'2" instead of the 6'3"
No this is my first time standing up on a board stoke
100 percent pure, fresh and from the source!
I even managed to connect a few sections of a too south swell ...
good times
two weeks running, must be come kind of a record
I decided that a brief dip in the brine was in order
My favorite wildly polluted river mouth / beach break
had ample parking
which on a Sunday morning in mid summer
was very odd
but the lack of surf
"The Curse of the Contest"
as it's known locally
had mellowed the local crowd.
Or maybe, after a hot and rowdy Saturday night partying
(the contest is in town)
They decided that the best option
was to make bail
skip the beach and go get some eggs
But with the sun rising over Saddleback I grabbed my mat and fins
and waded out...
right in the middle of a surf school
(two surf schools really, complete with videographer and photographer on the beach)
I know a lot of people dislike the schools
and we certainly have enough people surfing at this point
but depending on the waves that day
I love surfing in the middle of the school!
First I only get cut off the usual amount
which averages out to every other wave
the difference being these people really "didn't see ya coming down bro"
And these people are STOKED!
None of that 10 to 20 years surfing stoke
"it would be good if ... (choose one or more) the waves were bigger, smaller, there was more north in the swell, the tide was higher or lower, it was offshore, I had my 6'2" instead of the 6'3"
No this is my first time standing up on a board stoke
100 percent pure, fresh and from the source!
I even managed to connect a few sections of a too south swell ...
good times
Comments
I surfed a place that had pullouts to check from a distance (couple of ks). More than once I surfed in a pack of timid/inept beginners and basically had my pick of waves. For certain, competent surfers that would have been in the lineup passed because of the apparent crowds.
Moral: there's crowds, and then there's CROWDS.
KingWaka - being in the water is my favorite thing about surfing!