things are opening up

Morning fog

South wind

Clearing in the afternoon

I don't rightly know

what day it is

but we must be getting close

to June

and then Summer

I'll let a few go by first
but then
the sirens call...
two to three foot
swells
coming from the South West
a period of something in the mid teens
water temps in the high sixties
you know temps that make you want
take your time and
wade into it

savoring ...
the rising tide
so to speak

The first thing I'm going do
is duck dive a set
no fins
no mat
just the waves
me
and the jelly fish

Something about
the total immersion
my ears pop
and I'm completed surrounded
by the brine
Nirvana

Under normal conditions
I usually surf
a place I call
outside in-the-middles
it can be good
but it hangs off
one of the most polluted
river mouths around
well at least
top five
there is SO MUCH
competition
for the title
of most polluted
in these parts

at least it's not
the rainy season