It helps to have good fins
Big fan of the Duck Feet but looking at the Yuccas too |
There is a group
on Face Book
where I spend too much time
But it is a
hang out
of my friends
both near and far
How do I ride it?
Is a frequent and most legitimate question
and the answers come back
as best we can
using shaded words
to describe wild and subtle
actions
The trick
because there is always
a trick
(even in mat riding the coyote rules the roost)
is that
there is no trick
Riding a mat
is about waiting for the seasons
to change
So that that little sandbar
will take that
cross up swell
just right
even though
coastal dredging
to protect the value
of seaside homes
that never should have been built
destroyed the sandbar
years ago
riding a mat
has a lot to do with
how you surf your life
riding swells of memory
both light and dark
through the ever changing
moderne world that
we find ourselves in
suddenly
without explanation
we are surfing!
It helps to have
good fins
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