beyond description

to be fair

when I first started surfing

I was young

and inexperienced 

in the ways of the world

and

I was seduced

the sun increased my supply of vitamin D 

by a process known as dermal synthesis

whilst

tanning my hide

and 

bleaching my hair

the salt water

twisted and stretched my young body

in new ways

while it tossed me

like a dog

with a new toy

the surf

demanded that I

give up the illusion

of control

and learn to go

with the flow

late night and early morning
low clouds
a 1 2 3 foot
swell
running from the south west
for the next
100 days...

The first commandment of surfing is

after you paddle out 

I'm going to teach you to swim,

at least in the days before the leash...

by the end 

of which ever summer it was

I was in pretty good shape

and stoked 

beyond 

description