/*23 Breaths: June 2014*/

Sunday, June 29, 2014


Summer and there is so much good stuff on the surf blogs

Check out the latest Here & Now interview on UK Mat Surfers

After reading Ken Dog's interview you will be frothing to check out his daily blog

So here is a link to that

Harmless Neighborhood Eccentric

I thought this would a good time to do a little photo montage

something a little Steiny-esque

It turns out that capturing the spirit of a place with a few seemingly random photography and a catchy title


I encourage each of you to try so that you can truly have an appreciation of his work

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Summer Redux

is that feeling you got
in the pit of your stomach
going surfing in the morning
no idea what the swell was doing
you surfed the day before
but you never knew what today would bring
you were packed in the car
with your one surfboard
along with all your friends
and their surfboards
non surfing friends had to find their own ride
but there you were
on the way to the beach
no idea what you were going to do tonight
maybe a party?
an equally vague idea of what you were going to do tomorrow
go to the beach, what else?
but here you are
its mondaytuesdaywednesdaythurdayfridaysaturdaysunday
because the days of the week melt together
during the summer
either it's the heat
or just that arbitrary day references
have no meaning during
but it's warm out
there is no other place you need to be
and you are going to the beach
because it's

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Summer School

Paul posted some great video of a mat rider over at


Rather than repost here just follow the link above

Spoiler alert

keep your outboard pontoon dry....

I post these links and tips

In hopes

that someday

we get


a shot from a few years ago that I still find around the internets

my back lawn hasn't looked this good in years, we must have gotten some rain that year

Monday, June 23, 2014


More a feeling or a state of mind

than a series of X's on the calendar


wearing nothing but shorts, thong shoes and a sunburn

it's still too hot

even before the sun comes up

The colorful hordes

attempt to escape the heat inland

by visiting the shore

a sleepy beach town

becomes a porchlight in the night

for visiting moths of all descriptions

all except one

the swell

all except the "thunder from down under"

but that is a tale for another time

I would write about it today

but this Monday is sucking the life out of me

Like a Big Gulp

bought by some tourist

along with some cheap sand shoes

that won't last the day

combined with a twisted pair of sun glasses

all for 99 cents on the Weekend Special

at the seven eleven

film at 9

weather and sports at ten

see you then

Saturday, June 21, 2014

a walk would be nice

From wiki -

a wave is disturbance or oscillation that travels through matter/space, accompanied by a transfer of energy - so yes there are waves

so yes there are waves

but even on a mat

where almost everything

is "over head"

it's still only shoulder high

That said

the water is warm

and the sun is nice

maybe a


would be nice

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

there are somethings you can't do with a nice rose bush

The existing bushes are producing nicely

And I am totally addicted to my daily handful (or more ) of tomatoes

So now is when I plant the next wave....

because there are somethings you can't do with a nice rose bush...

Friday, June 13, 2014

A good time to pay attention

Mid June

and where is the Gloom?

The days have been unseasonably


summery in fact

For the first time

in decades

we have already had


count 'em


Cat 4 hurricanes

in the Eastern Pacific

The talk continues

about a gully washer

of an El Nino

The water temp is 66 at the Balboa Pier

A good time to pay attention

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

The cat demands it

The very first thing in the morning
(which we define as 4am)

The cat decides that his prison/palace
stuffed to the rafters with
food water and a clean litter box

is a little too prison

and so he must be allowed
to visit the front garden

to drink mass quantities
of the same filtered water
available from several fine China cups
located in the house

filtered tap water
is the water of the Gods
when consumed
before daylight
on the front porch

as for me
I have fallen off
the decaf wagon
and burnt the wheels,
the wagon bed
and all other
combustible wagon bits
in a campfire
by the side of this
seemingly unending road
so that I can make

The cat assumes his position
grooms twice and
assumes his role
Master of the Universe

I finish my coffee
make feeble attempts
to coax my bones
into a shape
resembling a skeleton
and begin my day
devoted to
earning money to
provide an unending supply
of Friskies Tender Vittles


Monday, June 9, 2014

there will be no dawn patrol today

*Years of training,
or maybe i've just gone soft
has led me to a go to bed early
get up early
dawn patrol

that collided
rather spectacularly
with the music schedule
at a local live venue

the "show starts at 7"
the first of two opening acts
may start in the general vicinity of 7 pm

The main attraction
will be taking the stage
around nineish

It was a good
dare I say

but there will be no
dawn patrol

*I wasn't always so
I used to stay out late
come home at 2am
"and now what are we going to do..."
and still change in the morning

but as they say
that was then
and this
is now...

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Thought for the Day

"Spend" your time wisely
you can't get it back once it's gone
No Refunds, No Returns
look in the mirror for your receipt...

Monday, June 2, 2014

a good day indeed

It had been awhile
but when a parking spot opened up
(free parking in Newport is as elusive as a unicorn)
I knew it was going to be a good day

I soon found myself
in the rip
bobbing about like a bit of flotsam
working hard to stay in one place
no place I would rather be

the swell direction, the tide, the beach slope
are all in cahoots
to create some oddly shaped
wedged up mutants of a wave

Not that Wedged up mutant
that's down the coast a bit
I don't mess with it

Plenty of exercise to be had here
trying to stay just at the surf line
picking up the odd
well shaped insider

Always with an eye out
for a crossed up peak outside
or more likely
a thousand yard close out...

The water has warmed up nicely
Testing out the "new" summer fins coming along nicely
getting more waves on Paul's DRP Omni (great mat! Thanks Paul)

a good day indeed