/*23 Breaths: January 2014*/

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Fog is the new rain

So the awesome swells of winter

have come

and gone

Big waves ridden

seeming by everyone with a surfboard

all at the same time

Huge waves ridden


who won?

But still no rain

The weather channel

likes to mess with me

gives me a 60 percent chance

of rain

on the ten day forecast

then takes it away

with the next computer model run

"blame it on the computer"

nicely played


"Fog is the new rain"

only in California...

Monday, January 27, 2014

Back to Blue

In honor of the Grammys

which I didn't watch

I made my way to the local lending library

and picked up a few discs to listen to

(the best thing about trying to play an instrument
is that I listen to music with more attention)

Back to Blue

A great album!

kids if you don't know what an album is, go ask you parents...

I even got out my reading glasses to try and make out the

miniaturized print on the liner notes

Not what you would call heavily produced

a few guitars

a bass

some drums

and that voice!

you can pick it out of a thousand others

front and center

you can even make out the words ...

As for the Grammys

congratulations to the winners, the losers

and those lucky enough to be nominated

as for the music

you can keep it

and I will keep going back

to the old stuff

where singers wrote songs with words

and musicians played notes


Sunday, January 26, 2014

Surfing Royality

...despite what you would gather from reading ER, ING and rest of the monthly rags, there have been, are currently and will probably always be a few dozen, maybe a hundred or so people that are the core of the surfing experience. Riders, designers, shapers, glassers both men and women who, in just going about their daily lives, working and surfing, have led the way for the rest of us.

We ride their shapes, use their fins and ride their mats.

Saly, there is no commercial potential

The big money is selling t-shirts to rapid Bieber fans or whomever the flavor of the month is...

Friday, January 24, 2014

Big News

One of those blurry unrelated pics you get from 23B
good stuff though...
So unless you have been living under a rock

and even then...

you know the storm of the century


it doesn't really matter where you are

Pacific, Atlantic, I understand the Caspian sea

has red flag warnings

The surf near you will be big

how big?

somewhere between

2-3 to 20-50 to OMG

film at 11

and a host of GoPro videos soon to follow

Big comes and Big goes, wake me up when it's good!

(the real news, I hid it down here at the end, is that on the extreme tail end of the 10 weather forecast there is a 30 percent chance of rain. Now the end of the 10 forecast is about as reliable as the "lucky numbers" on the fortune cookies I get from Ed's Pup Taco and Chinese Food ToGo...but still)


So go surf, be careful, keep an eye on the kooks in the water

Thursday, January 23, 2014

The fall that never left

We have never left the Fall
here on the West coast

on the East coast
they have had two winters

I so yearn for water
a day of fog
seems like a deep rain

the plants and I agree
so I know
I must be right

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

True Story

so where have you been?

between the Solstice and Monday?

Hiding out mostly

on the internets

playing a lot of bad guitar

failing miserably at giving up espresso

and turning over

in my mind

my latest meetings with

homo sapien surferus

Before what was going to be

a solitaire go out

i was part of the way thru

my pre surf stretching ritual

my new Omni blown up to 23 Breath...

when up pops a young lad

who instead of giving me


"what the F is that"


"we used to ride those back in the 60's"

both of which I have come to expect

and deal with in some

sort of

new wave

meet and greet

of the surf mat


but  no

out of  deep

left field

he hits me


his best

"we aren't worthy, we aren't worthy...."

complete with arm waves and bows....





and so I haven't been back

to the beach

in three months

Mats are just too mainstream

True story

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Ole man... Johnny and Edgar

It seems I have been missing something

I just can't put my finger on it

maybe it's nothing



wasn't there that season we used to have?

between fall and spring

not much of anything really

a little rain some times

what was it called?

something of our discontent...

I almost had it

it's gonna bug me all day...

Monday, January 20, 2014

"everything happens at a subatomic level"

A small scrap of food
Part of last night’s dinner no doubt
This morning it is vaporized on the grill
As I cook the morning coffee
In an instant I am transported
Just by the smell of the smoke
Sitting around a campfire
Trying not to burn dinner
Numb fingers tending a too small fire
Transported back into memory and then
back to the present day
Faster than you can say
“Scotty energize”
Reality is an amazingly pliable “state” of the “matter”

Enjoy the day