/*23 Breaths: December 2013*/

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Happy Solstice !


If you are living in the northern hemisphere

the days will now start to get longer

the rebirth is at hand

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

To view the moon

out in the pre dawn

to guard the cat

I stop to view the full moon

but I can't see it

over the noise of the freeway

Monday, December 16, 2013

Happy Hollow Daze

As a native Southern Californian

I have a warped view of the seasons

This is Christmas time

Warm day time temps

Chilly evenings

and afternoons spent hunting down

the right tide swing / sandbar combinations

with luck there is even offshore wind

Saturday, December 14, 2013

You better be good...

I don't mean to be jumping on the "be good" band wagon

especially at this late date...

but I could swear I saw Santa Claus getting out of this Rambler

at Trader Joes...

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Crunches like an apple tastes like a grape!

Been watching the back n forth on the FB pages for the Wedge crew(s) so when I saw this in the grocery store yesterday I knew it was important enough to photograph and post on the internets.

True it's no cat but it is a body surfing ape with a hand plane

They said body surfing

(and by extension mat riding etc)

could have have no future

no ER or ING

because there was no commercial potential

no way to sell people things

they don't need and don't really want

by associating them with talented riders

of waves

But there has been a change

if we live in a world

where a talented ape

riding a handplane

can be used to sell

grape flavored apples

then anything is possible.

now stop the world

I want to get off

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Santa Baby

Santa rocking the kayak this year

And so it came to pass...

we find ourselves in the middle of the pre - holiday rush

Massive trucks, loaded down with our collective GNP,

roam the streets ejecting packages, 

soon to be presents on every street and row

I myself take this opportunity

a flat spell in the fall

to add another 10 pounds of blubber

those butter cookies are so delicious!

"the better to play Santa", I tell my self

But will the mini-mat even recognise me?

Will the Omni with DRP even float this mass?

Maybe I need to look thru the plus size racks

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

one something to almost 3 o'clock

3 to 6


with slight offshores

I sit and contemplate the cosmos

things are just how they are


it doesn't take long

Monday, December 9, 2013

What do you want for Xmas?

just in time for the holidays 
The top 10 gifts to get a surfer are...

(drum roll please)

Well to begin with you don't need ten new things
(maybe knowing that is the biggest gift in itself)

Surfing is an experience maybe a lifestyle but not a product

(you can't buy a set wave from The Queen)

I suppose there is some stuff required

(I ALWAYS get email from naked body surfers who will argue the point and then send pictures)

but we tend to get more and more and more stuff, 

(especially here in the land of plenty)

some of the stuff never get used, a waste of the materials and energy that went into the manufacturing process and  lots of this stuff ends up in a landfill. 

(I'm not  buying that's a thoughtful gift for your great, great, great, great, great grandchildren who might be cultural anthropologists)

So what do you need?

(do peaks come in a ten pack with a side of off shore winds?)

More importantly during the gift giving season, what do you need that someone can buy you?

Grandma is more likely to pick up the pop out from the offshore sweatshop than the custom board from your local shaper.

(It had all those pretty plastic flowers and it came with matching shirt and trunks dearie)

(If grandma is jiggy with it and knows your local shaper (happy birthday wishes go out to Gary Hanel BTW) then goody for you and your obviously outstanding genetic lineage. Grandma may have even gotten handplanes for all the grand kids this year.)

Ok so where does that leave us?


(wax on wax off)

I had a standing order for surf wax for all gift giving occasions for years

(If you see me at the beach, ask me, I have some)

(hopefully the humor of a mat rider with a huge stash of wax is not lost on you)

There are some even neat wax scrapers available

(beats using a credit card, oh you cut those up? good!)

So where are we now?

more is out

less is in

waves come in sets
But don't come in a store.

The truth is no thing you can buy will make you feel like this

"Family treasures can't come thru the front gate"

So ask for a new beach towel.

That one in the car trunk stinks!

If it's "a magic towel" so much the better

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Gentlemen and Women, Start your engines! Lotus 7

Paul Gross

It's like he never rests

I have it on good authority that he has only slept 15 minutes in the last 23 years

So what does he do with all that extra time?

He refines his surf mats

Check out the latest here

Monday, December 2, 2013

Cyber Monday - please add to cart

December 1
80 degrees and sunny
Old man winter
wears shorts, a t-shirt and flip flops...

Humanity is slowly caving under an tidal wave of emails
enticements for buying more
At the Not-Thanksgiving-Any-More, Black-Friday, Cyber-Monday sale

Everything at fire sale prices amazingly similar to

My advice,
(oh here we go...)
is that you turn off all of your
and step outside
remember back
to a time when holiday magic
was just that
instead of a growing debt
to be paid back in monthly installments
after adding an 18 percent change

take a walk
maybe somewhere with trees
but a nice beach will do
try and remember the magic
of those old holidays
presents under the tree


but maybe it was just
a feeling
a slight pause
before life
began to rush by