/*23 Breaths: September 2013*/

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Omni with DRP

pizza with ricotta cheese and topped with mushrooms
In the shape of my new Omni...

And so it seems all the best days of summer are in the fall

The sky was blue

and clear as a bell

the temperatures were in the upper 70's on the sand

yet the vacationing hordes were not laying a claim to every or even any, of the fire rings that hug the parking lot

The water was in the upper 60's

The surf was not large by any means but I did see a 10 year old get a set wave that was double over head

you can do the math

All in all a good day to surf

But I had work to do,

a new mat to be ridden,

and these things don't test drive themselves...

Conclusive findings will, of course, take time

I'll have to ride the mat extensively, in a variety of conditions

at a variety of inflation levels

maybe going back an forth with my other Omni for some comparative surfings 

But that said,

This mat, with the down rail pontoons

at inflation levels more toward the full side of the gauge

in decent conditions

rides well

or I should say tube rides well

as that was what was on tap for the day.

And who am I to argue?

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Surf Cars - variations on the theme


I've been meaning to do another surf car post for a while now.

The connection between surfing and cars has always been intertwined,
most of us learn to surf about the time we get our first set of car keys...

Since you need a car to get to the beach here are some options I've noticed around town

this one lets you bring all your stuff and spend the night in comfort

Studebaker Daytona Wagonaire
As surfboards got shorter station wagons got shorter too.
There were always close ties between the folks in Detroit and the surfers on both coasts

some trivia for all you Studebaker freaks out there,
that break in the roof line is because the back section slides away! awesomeness


Now you are talkin'!

With only a mat and fins to worry about 
this convertible Thunderbird is the call

Best Surf Car Ever!

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Handplane Hoedown - the people issue!

So what do you call a group of hand planers?

A pod? No that's for whales

A gaggle? No that's geese

A hoedown? Yes that's it! A hoedown of hand planers

You heard it here first!





The End

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Handplane Hoedown - part two

There were lots of folks with multiple handplanes on display

I usually stay in the water while my wife takes pictures of what I missed on shore










good stuff




Monday, September 23, 2013

Handplane Hoedown

The Handplane Hoedown was last Saturday. The swell gods smiled upon us and provided waves that you could easily walk out to.
I am still still finding grains of sand in the most intimate places. Spent most of the time on my yellow plastic handplane. I can report that the new mat paddles nice but I didn't really get any waves on it. Morgan came along to take pictures and I will be posting them up over the next few days...

They saw me coming






It's a Nash

Friday, September 20, 2013

Some pictures are worth a thousand words...



my pictures are less literal


but trust me on this


the drop rail pontoon (DRP) is pronounced

I can't wait to get it wet and give it a go.

(Sadly the swell doesn't look to pickup until next week)

***

As part of the "All Neil All the Time" full moon harvest festival



Personally I am transfixed by the percussion using the broom (Larry Cragg).  Cragg is Young's guitar tech and has an amazing collection of guitars and amplifiers.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Handplane Hoedown

Artwork by Christine Brailsford

This Saturday

San Clemente State Beach
Date: Saturday, September 21, 2013
Time: Sunrise to ???

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

It helps to have good fins


There is a group
on Face Book
where I spend too much time

But it is a
hang out
of my friends
both near and far

How do I ride it?
Is a frequent and most legitimate question
and the answers come back
as best we can

using shaded words
to describe wild and subtle
actions

The trick
because there is always
a trick
(even in mat riding the coyote rules the roost)
is that
there is no trick

Riding a mat
is about waiting for the seasons
to change

So that that little sandbar
will take that
cross up swell
just right

even though
coastal dredging
to protect the value
of seaside homes
that never should have been built
destroyed the sandbar
years ago

riding a mat
has a lot to do with
how you surf your life

riding swells of memory
both light and dark
through the ever changing
moderne world that
we find ourselves in

suddenly
without explanation
we are surfing!

It helps to have
good fins

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

I would like to apologize in advance


Paul's new Drop Rail Pontoon has me intrigued.

A little DRP technology added to the already amazing OMNI sounds perfect for the local beach break heaves and pitches I find myself riding these days.

So I put in my order.

Read all about it here and here.

Which brings us to my apology.

When ever I order a new mat,

well not just a new mat the same thing happens when I would get hard boards,

there are flat spells,

wind storms

hordes of locusts

you get the idea

but still

something that keeps me (and everyone else)

out of the water.

And for that

I am truly sorry.

There is a corollary, the more I want to ride the new craft

the longer I have to wait.

Wait maybe that's the Theory of Relativity....but I digress...

anyway we could be in for a long dry spell

The best I could do was to order a new mat

as the seasons change and

things are quite variable anyway

(the south pacific is asleep and the north pacific hasn't really woken up yet)

So look for pics of a dry new mat,

artfully arraigned

here on 23B

shortly

Monday, September 16, 2013

Has anyone seen my Ugg boots?


A bit of a cool down expected to start sometime this week

some morning fog

along with a slow fade

of what was by all reports

a very fickle swell

and so it goes

as the earth tilts on its axis

once again we

here in the northern hemisphere

start our trip

out of summer

an into fall

fabulous!

BTW - In case you are the bookish type given to spending the long winter hours with a good read

the long awaited new work from Thomas Pynchon (Bleeding Edge) is coming out soon 

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Heading to the Zoo

To celebrate my son's birthday today






Saturday, September 14, 2013

Surf report - Foggy

Way back fog shot from da bread

So as I look out the window this morning (yesterday morning too)
I see fog lightly embracing the surrounding trees and the rolling hills that make up the countryside.
(actually it's foggy so I didn't see any of that, it's so foggy that I can barely see across the street to the identical house in our OC suburban sprawl)

Later on I'll load up the car and have a go at what is apparently a very debatable SW swell.

Maybe I can borrow some light sticks from one of the rave kids to light my way...



Friday, September 13, 2013

A tale of two cities


It was the best of times, it was the worst of times


People were frothing for a mat meet
There was swell
The weekend was going to be warm


There seems to be a gathering shaping up
in the northern part of the southern region
"North of the Bu and south of the Sur"
on Sunday

There are several gatherings 
scattered like sea birds
through out the South Bay

On Saturday
Happy Yom Kippur
I will be fishing young ravers
from the shore break
like the grunion
they are
all whilst wearing a glow stick
around my neck

Lately I have been hoping back and forth
between
Paul's short lived "Mini Mat" model
and 
the spectacular Omni
(It pays to have a raft bearer)

So you have read this far
Will there be a mat meet this weekend?
Yes, there is a mat meet every weekend
Every electron, proton and neutron of every atom
has a mat meet 
everyday of the week
365
7/24

There always has been
and
There always will be

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Big Mat Rave Party this weekend!


Mat Meet this weekend?

Maybe

There is some swell and the proposed location (which I have obscured with my considerable ph0chop lite product that comes with Windows) is one that we have used before.



If you are a member of the In George We Trust Facebook group you can read all about it there

If not drop me a line and I'll send you the details

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Mornings



I don't do mornings

It's true that I'm up

wandering around in the dark

usually looking for some lost item

It was here a minute ago but now

it's dark

and whatever I was looking for is lost.

So by rote I make coffee

strong, too much sugar, some milk

I used to use some

"Non dairy, coffee whitener"

but it sounded too much like paint

so I gave it up.

These mornings

I sit up,

I stretch,

I provide personalized security services for the cat

but if you want to catch me at my best

try me around noon

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

corporate profit charade



coyotes are around the corner
roaming with the dogs of war
If we lock up their chemical weapons
Won't they just make some more?

When will they realize
when will this killing season pass
I wish it was ancient history
In some class I was trying to pass

It seems they play that same old tune
there is money to be made in war
I hope I live long enough
to see the days when it's not like that any more

They want all the apples
to last as long as bricks
so they mess with the genes
for a quick profit fix

So I sign the petitions
and I march in some parade
don't ask the children to die
for another cruel quarter
of  this corporate profit charade


I know I need to stop

1) drinking too much espresso
2) reading the news
3) writing another bad blog post

but it's what I do

Monday, September 9, 2013

EoS - It was a good day


In the water for both days this weekend
and as it happens
I can't even remember the last time
that happened

Not that it was epic
just barely breaking on Saturday
but it picked up on Sunday
but then so did the wind
which doesn't matter at all

When you ride a mat
just being in the water
is the thing
The surf, the day, the wind and the tide
are all properties
of the the instance of
the surfDay object
one of as many
or as few as occur
over the course
of a lifetime

This one was
sunny
peaky
and not too crowded

I used a smaller mat
and bigger fins

It was a good day

Sunday, September 8, 2013

There is a red house over yonder...



Huge stacks of Marshall amps

Hendrix playing a Flyin V

What could be better than that?

Well the rest of the performance would be nice

but

it's too nice a day

to be inside

go surf

or at least drag you computer outside...

Friday, September 6, 2013

Phrases I would like to use in the near future


"Close the window, there is a draft in here!"

"Has anyone seen my Ugg boots?"

"Do we have any wood for a fire?"

"How about some soup for dinner?"

I'm going inside it's too cold out here..."

From the NWS

"HOT AND MUGGY CONDITIONS WILL CONTINUE TO PREVAIL ACROSS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA TODAY...AS AN UNUSUALLY STRONG UPPER LEVEL HIGH REMAINS OVER THE WESTERN STATES. HOWEVER...A GRADUALLY COOLING TREND WILL DEVELOP STARTING SATURDAY...WITH TEMPERATURES FALLING BELOW NORMAL BY MONDAY. ISOLATED TO SCATTERED THUNDERSTORMS WILL ALSO CONTINUE TO BE POSSIBLE OVER THE MOUNTAINS AND DESERTS EACH AFTERNOON AND EVENING."

Thursday, September 5, 2013

The year so far












that's about it
but I'm hoping for
a strong
finish

Like an out side set wave that doesn't really do anything
until it reforms on the inside