Wardie Ward gave us the the top to bottom tube shot that so many of us dream about 40 years ago. Tripping the shutter remotely on the camera Greenough wore on his back. Ward was in the channel timing the shot, Greenough, his hands full navigating the tube.
It was perfection, I have spent as many hours as anyone staring at it and I am forever grateful.
This 46 second video is worth even more to us that that beautiful tube sequence.
It gives us a textbook execution of something I am considerably more familiar with, surfing with a bunch of people in the line up and trying to have a little fun on a small rather mushy day.
School is in session mat riders.
The follow up graduate course on surfing massive grinders on your mat is largely self taught, good luck!
A welcome bit of chill in the air this morning
last night was warm
watching the changes in the afternoon light
definitely late summer early fall
The plants have been changing for weeks
and how about that moon?!
Now where was I?
I have been looking for some stickers to adorn my big plastic handplane
That late summer early fall which can be the best of all worlds in these parts.
The great tourist hordes have (somewhat) turned their attention from the beaches to what Justin Bieber notebook will match their new back to school wardrobe.
Some overcast / marine layer clouds in the morning (with some wind)
but it burns off by noon.
The Pacific wave machine seems to idling in neutral lately,
but there were a few Wedge days this summer, some south swell days in the Islands
the stories will incubate over the winter and by next summer this summer may very well
HAVE BEEN EPIC!
Not true of course, but this is how these things work,
"Half a million people in Huntington doing battle with the police over three days...order only restored after the military was brought in at the request of Ronald Reagan, you can still see the marks on the pier where they dropped the napalm ..."
If you have any historical perspective you understand.
I'm looking at the end of the summer garden and the start of the fall winter growth season.
After a few weeks there may even be some more surf.
So as you recall from yesterday's post
PMK has called for an EOS (End of Summer) gathering of the tribes
Body surfers, handplaners, Paipo riders, mat surfers, and the accompanying folks that just like to hang on the beach on a nice summer day.
From the desk of or more probably the sandy beach towel of PMK-
Sunday August 18, 2013 7am at Beacons in Encinitas
Description SUN, SURF AND SMILING FACES.
Come join us at the beach to celebrate what we all love about summer. The surf forecast looks great and it promises to be another beautiful day in San Diego. Neptune left me a message claiming 3-4', warm water, perfect tides, sunny and 75 degrees.
To help celebrate, we invited our favorite shapers to bring down a bevy of their amazing designs for everybody to try out. So if you have ever wanted to glide across a wave on anything from a handplane, alaia, surf mat, paipo or a blow up (seal)bark-a-lounger, now's your chance.
The fine folks from greenlines will be up early providing coffee and refreshments for the dawn patrollers but the stoke will last all day.
Thank you, greenlines.
Demos provided by:
Green Lightning Surfboards
Leucadia United Bodysurfing Club
more to follow...
In addition, I will be breaking out some private stash from my buddies at:
Roger Beal Surfboards
I also have a boxfull of donated mix-matched swimfins so if you need a fin, come on down.
Can't wait to see you all in the water.