/*23 Breaths: August 2013*/

Friday, August 30, 2013

Back to School

Wardie Ward gave us the the top to bottom tube shot that so many of us dream about 40 years ago. Tripping the shutter remotely on the camera Greenough wore on his back. Ward was in the channel timing the shot, Greenough, his hands full navigating the tube.

It was perfection, I have spent as many hours as anyone staring at it and I am forever grateful.

This 46 second video is worth even more to us that that beautiful tube sequence.

It gives us a textbook execution of something I am considerably more familiar with, surfing with a bunch of people in the line up and trying to have a little fun on a small rather mushy day.

School is in session mat riders.

The follow up graduate course on surfing massive grinders on your mat is largely self taught, good luck!

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Ain't no Romeo

I 'm hoping for a little

storm tract wobble

that could bring us a SE swell

but probably

just a side order of

clouds and high humidity

to go with

the heat

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

There is no third world

I need a break from the media
sometimes it's like
sipping from a
fire hose

I just wanted a drink
but now my lips are gone
and I'm still thirsty

So just to share the pain
today is bad poetry Wednesday
and yes it's still flat....

There is no third world
There is no plan B

This course of action
is something from your
etch a sketch view of things
after these important messages
we will be right back

But we won't
because we can't
we are always here now
dealing with those great
ideas for the future
you had yesterday

There is no third world to go to
there is just you and me

Monday, August 26, 2013

Meeting Greenough

Nice post on meeting Greenough over on Lloyd's blog over the weekend. You should plan on spending some time there. Everything under the sun and more. A daily stop on my trip thru the cypersphere.

Saturday, August 24, 2013

A new piece on John Severson

by Kendog

over at UK Matsurfers Org

Check it out it's awesome!

Friday, August 23, 2013

Thursday, August 22, 2013

good stuff

These things have a typical pattern for me

I ride things I normally don't get the chance to

and I ride my mat

but I always give the boards a look.
Usually I try whatever Pendo has brought.

Michael Emery took dims and an outline from a Liddle shape at Bird's Shed and had some discussions with Steve Pendo

My interest was piqued

To be honest I haven't really stood up surfing in years

But hey I gave it a go.
First wave was a set wave and a late take off at that,
the board took off like a shot
leaving me in a heap and swimming for the board.

Whilst some may be disappointed by this I found it encouraging.
Fast is good and even faster is even better.
A couple more waves and I found my sea legs.
The board was magic.

I understand someone bought it on the spot.

good stuff

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Where was I?

A welcome bit of chill in the air this morning
last night was warm
watching the changes in the afternoon light
definitely late summer early fall
The plants have been changing for weeks
and how about that moon?!

Now where was I?

I have been looking for some stickers to adorn my big plastic handplane
these will be perfect.

Matt Beard, painter, coffee drinker, mat rider

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

The day had it all

The gangs all here

The next generation was out in force

You want to ride something different? 
We got you covered.

A trio of planes

A box of fins

and boys with sticks

The day had it all
more pics
as soon as the snap shots come back from the drugstore

Thursday, August 15, 2013

Surfmats - the meme

What my parents think I do

What my friends think I do

What society thinks I do

What I think I do

What I really do

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Remember the Wompfest

Next Sunday, Beacons, 7am

Be there

or not

it's all sort of


Matt Beard, artist extraordinaire, created the poster above.

Even more of his work at 

Monday, August 12, 2013

Fall Mornings and Summer Afternoons

It's been nice weather lately.

That late summer early fall which can be the best of all worlds in these parts.

The great tourist hordes have (somewhat) turned their attention from the beaches to what Justin Bieber notebook will match their new back to school wardrobe.

Some overcast / marine layer clouds in the morning (with some wind)

but it burns off by noon.

The Pacific wave machine seems to idling in neutral lately,

but there were a few Wedge days this summer, some south swell days in the Islands

the stories will incubate over the winter and by next summer this summer may very well


Not true of course, but this is how these things work,

"Half a million people in Huntington doing battle with the police over three days...order only restored after the military was brought in at the request of Ronald Reagan, you can still see the marks on the pier where they dropped the napalm ..."

If you have any historical perspective you understand.

I'm looking at the end of the summer garden and the start of the fall winter growth season.

After a few weeks there may even be some more surf.

I'm looking forward to some rain

Thursday, August 8, 2013

EOS Event- Mat meet and get together

So as you recall from yesterday's post
PMK has called for an EOS (End of Summer) gathering of the tribes
Body surfers, handplaners, Paipo riders, mat surfers, and the accompanying folks that just like to hang on the beach on  a nice summer day.

PMK assures me that it will be all

and no

See you there
August 18, 2013
starts when you get there
and ends when you leave

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Fun In The Sun - Expression Session

From the desk of or more probably the sandy beach towel of PMK-

Sunday August 18, 2013   7am at Beacons in Encinitas

Come join us at the beach to celebrate what we all love about summer. The surf forecast looks great and it promises to be another beautiful day in San Diego. Neptune left me a message claiming 3-4', warm water, perfect tides, sunny and 75 degrees.

To help celebrate, we invited our favorite shapers to bring down a bevy of their amazing designs for everybody to try out. So if you have ever wanted to glide across a wave on anything from a handplane, alaia, surf mat, paipo or a blow up (seal)bark-a-lounger, now's your chance.

The fine folks from greenlines will be up early providing coffee and refreshments for the dawn patrollers but the stoke will last all day.
Thank you, greenlines.

Demos provided by:
Brown Fish
Wegener Surfboards
Whomp Handplanes
Enjoy Handplanes
Patagonia Cardiff
Grain Surfboards
Green Lightning Surfboards
Leucadia United Bodysurfing Club
Pendoflex Surfboards
Surfy Surfy
more to follow...

In addition, I will be breaking out some private stash from my buddies at:
Papa Planes
Rocket Alaias
Hess Surfboards
Roger Beal Surfboards
Churchill Swimfins

I also have a boxfull of donated mix-matched swimfins so if you need a fin, come on down.
Can't wait to see you all in the water.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Last Sunday

Nice to see these guys, the local flocks were all wiped out in the 60's due to DDT usage.
But they are back and that's cool. 

If you know where then 

you know where

I like it because the sand squeaks

No trip anywhere is good unless you get to spend some time pondering the local geology.
There is a layer about mid photo that is made up of much bigger rocks. I wonder how long ago it was laid down?

A little pocket park in SoCal

The hills in late summer