/*23 Breaths: January 2013*/

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

What do ya do?

When the surf is flat

or windy

or the tide is

too high or

too low

You gotta do something!

Guitar case
For some odd reason

considering I am almost totally

tone deaf

I've decided

A guitar!

(insert mangle G chord .wav file here)

That's what I need

Considerably more guitar

than I can either

play or even

remotely deserve

Like the kook that catches the wave of the day

I am not worthy!

 But at least I don't have to spend the long winters nights

watching sitcom reruns

Fluffy totally digs the case!

PS I will NOT be jamming, gigging, touring, dropping a new CD or playing within earshot of humans.


Made by Hand

So many of the objects we come in contact with on an average day are mass produced with such high tolerances that they are virtually identical.   I have made and effort to try to develop an appreciation for those (very few) things still made by hand. It's the variations, the imperfections that make things unique. Stop a moment, take a closer look. A brush stroke, a tool mark, maybe a bit of wood grain. That's the universe staring right at you. And it's smiling

Here are a couple of videos about the the luthier who makes these instruments. Great Stuff

Here is the second video

Monday, January 28, 2013

Thus I have heard...

Here in the tragic kingdom of the OC

Winter is a special time

The summer crowds are gone

Replaced by the winter crowds

The Aleutian swells march merrily down the coast

right past our south west facing beaches.

Some days I venture to the shore to wave to them as they head down the coast

towards San Diego

We are passed over like the short fat kid at the basketball tryouts.

But, that said,

if you are industrious enough

with enough




and above all an unlimited kitchen pass

you can search out

little bends in the coastline

brief changes in wind direction

complementary swell direction

and for a few precious hours

enjoy the surf of a lifetime

Thursday, January 24, 2013

SoCal Weather

If the weather in SoCal was a person

it would be diagnosed with multi personality disorder.

A few sprinkles before the holidays

a week of 80 degree dry heat in January

now, dare I say it,  it's raining

and from the forecast

will continue to do so

for the next couple of days

Here we call it winter

Anywhere else it would make for a fine spring

The turnip greens are smiling

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

PG Interview

You have probably already read the Paul Gross interview on Liquid Salt here

If not read it now.

If Paul didn't make the mat you ride then just like Ricky says to Lucy, "you have 'splaining to do".

The design work he has done over the last several decades has pioneered the innovations in the modern surf mat that we all take for granted.

Get some of the back story and see whats next because if it's light outside Paul is probably out surfing and developing the new next generation.

Interview on Liquid Salt here

Monday, January 21, 2013

So I went

So it came to pass

I would venture out

into whatever season it was

and partake in the saline goodness

Not a bad morning

the car wasn't too icy

heck the thermometer only said 40

This makes the water

a toasty 53



As promised

"no one out"

perhaps the three most

inviting words

in the surfing


but in socal

it usually means



the swell

had not been reading

it's own press clippings

and was,



Every once in a while

these sideways


would push


the inside sandbar

and be fun.

So I went


Tuesday, January 15, 2013

A Wind Event

We haven't had one of those in a while.

It's been offshore, sure. But a real window rattler with the always fun "it's trash day and your cans have just gone rolling down the street, spilling their contents everywhere, oh but maybe it's the neighbors so I'll pick it up later" kind of wind.

But let's for a moment ponder the wonderful sculpting effects the Devil Winds can have on some decent swell.

The kids' got nice style, weigh well balanced, good arm position

Here we show off shore winds holding up a wave face allowing this young man to venture into the "Pope's Living Room"  (never a bad day for an obscure Jock Sutherland Pipeline reference) 

The same young man, moments later "claiming it"
I think this went the same way as "planking"
I may have been miss informed.

Be that as it may the local swell conditions have been blown flat by the winds so not much to discuss if you don't take into account the GIANT STORM brewing out the back.

We'll see

As for me
I wish I could still go out in the garden and pick a handful of these

but we have made the turn and daylight today is
23 seconds longer than
it was

and that will have to do

Monday, January 14, 2013


No sadly no

This has been a test

of the emergency

mat meet


(I went out and threw the switch on the old mat generator in the old mat cave, that sucker started up like a champ!)

If this had been an actual mat meet signal

you would be directed to the local beach break

to frolic in the surf

with a number of like minded


On the plus side the local offshore winds will warm the daytime temps up to the mid seventies by next weekend

The surf is forecast for to increase to a height of 2 feet by then

Winter in the Southern California Bight

Fall in Idyllwild

Thursday, January 10, 2013

playing with the colors

Photo by Lance Smith
I remember trading mats with Mattitude and thinking "how does he ride this at such a low inflation?"
Fortunately I kept an open mind and that opened up a whole new side of the mat for me.

These only bloom during the summer. 
I have a case of the mid winter blahs so I thought I would post it.

The persimmon would be worth growing if only for the changes in the foliage.

The inspiration for the name of my old blog.
Frequent Rip Currents
Yes I got it wrong

Photo by Jason Hall
Even when I stand up I don't stand up

Photo by Jason Hall

playing with the colors 

Photo by Jason Hall

Monday, January 7, 2013

The Endless Summer

a normal


weather pattern

43 degrees

with a chance of rain


with a chance of rain

in a couple of days

then repeat.



the search

for the perfect wave

Thursday, January 3, 2013

a recap of 2012

Stuff happened

not much rain during the local "rainy season"

Some idiot(s) hacked my twitter account so they could get people to click on a link to a diet pill ad by saying that someone was saying something bad about them

Then more stuff happened

The weather warmed up and I wore shorts

I got a great new mat!

The weather got colder and I switched to long pants and socks

The world was supposed to end

but then it didn't.

It seems someone read the directions wrong and it was just the end of one cycle and the beginning of another

greens definitely greens

It rained a little bit before the local "rainy season" started

Then more stuff happened

The End

of one cycle and the beginning of another. 
Chopped into units, each containing the four seasons and numerically named.
On the bright side if you can read this your eyes are still pretty good!

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Life leaves a mark

- Pillsbury Point - 
I'd tell you where it is but 
then I would have to poke you in the stomach and eat you

Greetings and salutations!

If you are reading this post then I assume that you have navigated your way past the end of the world falls

Thru the Christmas holidays

Around the end of the year celebrations

You may have even managed to have not fallen over the fiscal cliff,

although it maybe too early to tell about that one.

So here you sit, with two questions fighting it out for the thought space allowed for the day

"When do I get more time off?"


"What do I do about my New Years resolutions?"

You have probably already burned through all the time off you will be allowed for quite a while. You may as well just put your head down on your desk and forget about that for a while. Try repeating the mantra "It's already Wednesday, it's already Wednesday... for a while. It helps. Trust me.

(At least until the next winter swell  / offshore winds combo conditions when I'm sure you will develop that nasty two maybe three day cold that is going around...)

As for your New Years resolutions, they take care of themselves actually. Since the Xmas cookies are all gone (I know they are because I looked) the 25 percent increase in calories you have been consuming will level off and if you increase your activity level just a tad no one will ever know about that extra 5 pounds.

The count down to the summer matting season starts now!