/*23 Breaths: September 2012*/

Saturday, September 29, 2012

The Board Room

The Southern California show is next weekend.

All the information here

This year honoring Mark Richards

Enough boards, fins and surf stuff to make you head explode!

Then there is the Surfaid art auction which is really awesome in it's own special way.

While my usual surf craft involves heavy breathing on my part and some sort of swim fins I have never given up my love of all things surfboard. 

The great thing about the show is that the entire lineage of (stand up) surfing is represented from wood boards that were last surfed at Waikiki in the 1920's to the very latest cutting edge surf technologies. 

Some time spent thinking about the progression of boards and materials and the subsequent changes in performance can give you not only a sense of our surfing heritage but a very real grounding for your own surfing.

Your intentions and objectives will always dictate your choice in surf craft.

"Horses for courses" , "The right tool for the job" or "Don't bring a knife to a gun fight"

Whatever your intentions may be if you love surf boards don't miss the show!

Friday, September 28, 2012

Wake the F*#k Up!

I thought it was funny last night when I saw it on Steiny's website.

When I woke up this morning and watched it again

it was still funny.

In other news

there is surf

the morning tide is fat

and we are heading into another heat wave

I'll see you in the water

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Three little words - yep it's a repost

John and me 
Waiting for a set
Photo by Jason Hall of DailyBread

As with many things of this nature
there is quite a bit of debate
about the three most beautiful words
in surfing.

Stand up tube
I can't really argue with this one. A hollow wave large enough to stand up in is no doubt a thing of beauty even if I spend most surf days in a prone position. The stand up tube being just shy of the tube-so-big-you-can-drive-truck-through-it, but we don't get many of those here.

No one out
Since 23B is written, produced, directed and edited (somewhat) from the very bowels of the occasionally  sunny Southern California, the phrase "No one out" is hardly ever uttered, even in jest. But there are times when everything comes together when, and for a few precious moments it's not super crowded so I can definately see the beauty in these words.

Split the peak? 
The beauty here is that it shows some proposed synergy to utilize a limited resource in an optimum manner.  Usually uttered between two other guys effectively shutting you out of the wave there by minimizing it's beauty.

Off shore wind 
A great phrase in surf-o-logy. OSW can take a lumpy mix of swells and turn it into extremity numbing perfection. Off shore wind can also take a meek and mild swell and send it back whence it came leaving you without a thing to ride, except a bicycle. There is a milder version "variable winds" which is code for you better get on it fast because it's off shore now but it won't last. As a side note we haven't has a strong off shore condition in a while. One of those nights where your trash cans and the neighbors cat roll down the street at midnight, never to be seen again. Strong winds also mean some idiot will light the local chaparral on fire and burn untold  thousands of acres and the homes contained there in. Truly, a double edged sword.

Autumn breezes
grooming wind swell
burn down the house

One more wave
More an inside joke than not. If you take one more wave and it's a good one, it will sufficiently feed the flame of your stoke and you'll paddle back out for more, guaranteed. On the other hand if you get a crummy wave you paddle back out to so as to get a "good" one for your last wave. Only exhaustion or some immovable deadline ever makes you paddle in.

Out the back
Another gift from our Australian friends, this is a version of the simpler "outside".  Best uttered by lifeguards in a certain non valued tower during the sixties in between " no dogs on the beach, no dogs" and " please walk your bikes on the pier, walk your bike".  The lifeguards vantage point atop the pier allowing them to make sure no set waves went unused. Thanks guys

Back to School
This may truly be the very best three words in surfing!  Theoretically thinning the crowd, but between high unemployment and home schooling you might be hard pressed to see the difference, especially on a good swell. Back to school is a particularly welcomed phrase as it points to the changing of the of the seasons, a return to NW swells and  variable winds more common in the fall.

Photo by Graham Day of the Shelter Surf Shop

So that's it for a Thursday and my favorite surf related three word combos.

Feel free to contribute your favorites in the comments

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

One day ear

 (early morning monsoonal moisture. How about this weather?!)

I had surfed on Saturday and so on Sunday when I woke up with a powerful hunger for eggs,

(small but warm waves, eight o'clock and no one out)

my wife and I decided that we would go to one of our favorite places for breakfast.

The Stuff Surfer is on the beach in Newport. Since it's after Labor Day you can get a place to park and a there are open tables. You order and pay inside and they bring out your food and you get to eat  with your toes in the sand.

I've never had a bad breakfast burrito. (Actually I've never had a bad burrito of any description) The potatoes, grilled with red onions are to die for!

You may have noticed there was still some small swell running in the picture above at a place that is best described as in between the Point and School Yards.

You may be wondering why I didn't just go surf and then have brunch.

It seems that my Surfer's Ear has progressed to the point where my doctor calls it "one day ear" as in 'one day' you are going to have to have surgery to open up that ear canal or as I refer to it I can go surfing for 'one day' then my ear swells up and closes for a couple of days.

One day ear

Monday, September 24, 2012

Autumn Whomp

JJ sent over this clip last night

Thinkmat Productions presents

Amazing stuff! I've never seen the water so clear.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

I always go for the latter.

As I have mentioned in blog posts too numerous to site here I am a fan of the fall.

a big fan

the water is still warm and the tourist have gone back to whence they came

the surf benefits from having swell from two directions at once

Saturday was one of those days

I had ridden the mat for a while and decided that the fish would be the go way to break things up

The first thing you notice about surfing a board after riding a mat is how hard they are.

Like sticking your mat in a vat of Viagra over night.

It's obvious I know, but still I absentmindedly tried to squeeze and cuttle the board into another shape but the deck and rails held fast.

Which is, in the grand scheme of things is just as it should be.

When you ride a mat you body surf the wave and the mat adds touches of brilliance to the task in the way it helps you flow across the water.

Riding a board, you surf the board and the board really has all the fun surfing the wave. 

I remember one wave in particular.

A nice little peak wedged up with just a hint of a shoulder.

When I ride a fish I like to start off by throwing a little turn off the top, just to get a little speed and to start the  rhythm of the turns to follow. Driving down the now steepening face I rubbed the belly of the fish on the wave trough like I was scratching a mosquito bite. It felt so good. Now in addition to the aforementioned good feelings what you have done is transferred the kinetic energy from your accelerating mass coming down the wave to the boards keels and like a compressed spring as soon as you stop loading them up they start to unload. That is once your downward and outward trajectory has reached it's apex the fins revert to their resting shape with a delightful little snap. If you have timed all this right you should get flung back up to the top of the wave in time to repeat this exercise in applied physics until the wave is done or until your head explodes.

I always go for the latter.  

Thursday, September 20, 2012

What The Sea Gives Me

This is how it works.
If we let Hollywood fund and produce surf films we get the "Beach Blanket" movies.
Perhaps entertaining in spots but not real surf movies.
If you want good surf movies we all need to throw in a little something for seed money.

These are the same people (misfit productions) that brought us Manufacturing Stoke.

I'm sure you remember how great that movie was.

This is their next effort.

Click on this link to go to Kickstarter and contribute

Ever since I heard the title I have been thinking about this movie.

What does the sea gives me?

Entertainment, recreation, on a good day maybe even dinner.

As I peel back the layers of the onion, I find that what the sea really gives me a path back to a functional relationship with nature.

My weekdays, probably like many of you, starts with a few hours connecting to servers located who knows where, making sure that commerce can continue for another day.

After that I spend more precious moments of my life with a few thousand of my closest friends and neighbors on the 405 freeway heading south in a effort not unlike salmon heading upstream to spawn and die. Except we go upstream and go to meetings. We are also lucky enough to repeat the performance some hours later headed in the opposite direction.

The next day the process repeats itself.

Without the sea, without surfing, I would have become the Borg long ago.

Resistance, as we all know, is futile.

Just part of the collective.

A mass consumer in a school of mass consumers.

But the sea gives me a chance to escape.

I meet like minded individuals and groups.

Sharing our love of the ocean and the waves.

When is the storm coming? How is the swell? Has the water warmed up yet? Have you seen the new fins? When does the new Journal come out? Twin fins or Quads? Long boards or short boards? Is it fun out there? Are we riding the mats today or enjoying the purity of body surfing?

The sea gives me a path back to a simple relationship with nature that I don't find in today's urban environment.

What does the sea give you?

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Frost on the pumpkin

A charming colloquialism on this side of the pond

but that's not really frost

and that ain't no pumpkin

The weather has cooled off a bit

and I'm more than willing to take it

and run

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

First things first

Dale has completed his medical procedure and was resting in his room and talking from reports I received yesterday.

We all wish him a complete and speedy recovery.

I thought it might be a good moment to ponder not our own mortality, because I know how that will turn out but sometimes NOW is a good time to consider your healthcare and general state-of-health.

If you are one of the lucky ones in this country that have healthcare your deductible has probably been met so it's a good time to make an appointment to get a check up.

I remember being in a doctors office once and he was going on about how many lives he saved, not by the medicine he practiced as he was a specialist in a field not necessarily life threatening but because as part of his screening process he took the 90 seconds to take the patients blood pressure and refer then to a cardiologist if their pressure was high.

If you surfed when "long boards" were just surf boards then it might be time to schedule a full physical.

Think of all the things you don't want to miss.

PS If you think a "long board" is a 6'4" and spend your time at the beach doing "sick" airs ask your mom to schedule a dermatologist appointment for a quick screening.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Best wishes for Dale

Important news

I understand Dale Solomonson is in the hospital and undergoing heart surgery today.

I know that Dale and his mats have touched everyone in the mat community in some way.

We wish him a successful procedure and a speedy recovery.

Here is his contact information from his website if you would like to email him your good wishes.

Dale Solomonson dalesolomonson@hotmail.com

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Handplane Hoedown

"The first thing you need when going body surfing is a fresh body"

Meet up with dozens of my closest personal friends yesterday at the Fall Handplane Hoedown on Saturday.

A  big thank you to Brown Fish for organizing the gathering.

The event coincided with a another peak in the ongoing heatwave here in SoCal and an unfortunate high tide mid morning.

The high tide moved the break on shore and I don't think I have ever seen so many wompers stuffed in so many onshore tubes in one place on one day.

I managed to dodge the tube all day but still had sand pounded in every open bodily orifice.

Yes even there. 

Unfortunately my mad organizational skills didn't include charging up the battery on my camera so I don't have any pictures to share.

Fortunately at least half of the people on the beach had GoPros and so I'm sure there will be sufficient documentation scattered about on the Internet in all the usual places.

Good Times  

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Fall Handplane Hoedown

> San Clemente State Beach
> Date: Saturday, September 15
> Time: Sunrise to ???

This is not a contest in any way, shape or form. Just a day of fun (ie. Fish Fry) to celebrate the handplane. NO POSTERS, NO BANNERS, NO SALES, NO T-SHIRTS. All word of mouth. This event is for everyone, from the first time garage made handplanes, to the super refined handplanes that are being sold in shops. If you're into the food tray thing, bring that too. There will be representatives with Demo Planes from Hess, Surfcraft Co-op, Enjoy, and Brownfish, plus any and all other company's are welcome to bring handplanes for the masses to try-out. Please spread the word via facebook, twitter, instagram, etc. Also, a good old fashioned phone call to your Bro would be greatly appreciated.

The Event will be held at the base of the San Clemente State Beach Day Use Parking Lot. Just walk down the trail, and you should find us.

Alternate Parking at the base of Avenida Calafia in city lot. Walk south along beach. Should be about 100 yards south of Avenida Calafia.

Monday, September 10, 2012

JJ's a genius

 JJ emailed me the following clip of a test he had done with a new backback / pole mount for his GoPro

He was looking for a perspective that would allow you to see more of what the rider was doing to surf a particular wave. So much of the subtlety is lost from the normal on-the-beach or even in-the-water views.

What he ended up with was mounting the GoPro on the end of a scorpion's tail extending from the backpack harness. The motor drive is remotely actuated  by a wireless do-dad on his wrist.

I like it. He achieved his primary goal of a vastly improved point-of-view and as an added plus a lot of the vibration you get from a head mounted camera is absent.

He will make a fortune from the motocross and mountain bike crew.

Apparently the looks on the tourist's faces as he enters or leaves the water are priceless.

I am just waiting for the winter to see the back in the tube shots.

Just for comparison purposes here is JJ's custom made film rig

Friday, September 7, 2012

They say

that the native Alaskans have 50 words for snow.

I am sitting here with the door wide open to the pre-dawn

with just a pair of trunks on

and it's

what's the word

it's been so long I have forgotten

it's just not hot.

Quite nice really

Soon the fiery orb will crest the horizon and I will have many words

humid, muggy, sweltering


Looking forward to getting in the water this weekend

Stay cool

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Summer into Winter

So many reasons to love the autumn

The water, which for some reason took forever to warm up this year, is still quite nice. I bought a new wetsuit, finally, but I'm happy to let it hang on the back of the door for another month.

The swell direction and hopefully the wind direction becomes variable. At my local beach break a straight south swell needs some north west in it to help shape the walls into peaks and a little offshore breeze is always welcome.

The charming visitors find something else to do on the weekend. During the week the kids are off at school learning those important skills (how to show up, sit down and shut up), that will serve them so well when they hopefully enter the workforce.

The garden as always needs work.  Compost needs to be mixed into the soil and fall and winter vegetables need to be planted. But it's been so hot and many of the plants are still in summer mode so I'll wait for a change in the weather.

 soon the autumn equinox arrives
but not even the humming birds
can lift my melancholy 

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

they come they go

GIS data:  .shp

500 AM PDT WED SEP 5 2012




But at least it's still hot

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Tropical Depression - John

GIS data:  .shp

500 AM PDT TUE SEP 4 2012