/*23 Breaths: March 2010*/

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Wohoo Wednesday

our intrepid explorer thinks back to last summer
and the fun that was had while waiting for the inside to shape up

Photo courtesy of Daily Bread

“like a Willys' in four wheel drive”

My assigned vehicle for exploring 3 dimensional space

Runs great!

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Spring Zoo

Spent the day at the world famous
San Diego Zoo on Monday
a fabulous day

If SD every has a bad day of weather
someone please mail me a picture
because every day I'm there
it's perfect!

So no surf on Monday
but it did look like there was swell
checking those spots
one can check from the freeway

We are in that
between the seasons time
when swell direction can vary
dramatically from day to day

I was out the other day
just getting wet really
surfing the shore break
only a couple of people out

when outside
started to form

I put my head down
and paddled / kicked
with everything I had

the wave was a nice wedge of
two complementary swells meeting
on a clandestine date
to merge

and I wanted to be in the middle of it

I figured I would be too far inside
to be in great position
but I could catch the left
and have a nice shoulder
to cry on

just as I got into position
the damn thing pitched!
me and my mat went
"ass over tin cup"
as they used to say

summer may not be here
but it's sending feelers

Which brings us to Bad Haiku Tuesday

first south wedges
summer explodes
too far outside

I am learning "not to share" so maybe we can stop the bad haiku's in the future
but maybe not

But onward to a great internet,
in this case Facebook, find

The following shot was swiped from
Kevin "Mel" Thoman's Facebook page 
It's a shot of the Wedge crew during the 70's
Men of iron those Wedge guys
Thanks Mel! 
(what are "friends" for)
Check the mat just right of center 
(it has fins attached!)

Monday, March 29, 2010


If you have been reading this blog for any length of time
you know that I enjoy nothing more than
read the translated works of 6th century BC
Chinese poets

So check this one out

Take time to listen
to what is said without words,
to obey the law too subtle to be written
to worship the unnameable
to embrace the unformed

I know, for sure, that this guy is writing about mat riding

I just wonder how he felt about variable inflation

and of course what his fin preferences were.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

What's black and blue

and surfed all over?

My 2010 quiver *

small, yet deep enough

Everything still fits in a day pack

*I do reserve all rights to make adjustments, most notably additions, at any time.

I am thinking about a pair of these for body surfing

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Scars of Light

I am no photographer
but this time of year the garden is
going off!

"Scars of Light" is a reference to my attempts
to bring you some of this beauty via 23B
I toyed with "Scabs of Light"
but that seemed a little too crude

I hope you are all able to get outside
that where the real action is!

This is a promo shot for camera phones and watches. Note the wrist twist so you can see the watch face.
But I thought this piece badly needed some surf and I heard that the Wedge was breaking

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Spreading the Stoke

I may have mentioned that
print is dead
and that er and ing would be
along with all the rest

if they didn't make the jump to
some pay to view
iPad format

But it seems
that like all good
capitalist, marketing, entrepreneurs
that they
(and here I must say quite wisely)
are going to ride the swell of the internets
just a bit longer

print is dead
that won't change
you'll be able to tell
the grand kids
about a kid on a bike
delivering a newspaper

So what has happened
is that the blog-o-sphere
has lifted up the industry
along with
a slew of commerish sites
"spread the stoke"
which is
the point

(queue the Beach Boys)

One nice thing
is that
(with some exceptions, of course)
most blogs
aren't plugging
the top 45
or the APS
(whatever the pro's are called this week)

the non 6'2"
"alternative craft"
world is getting more attention
than it would

Glass Spoons
Hand Planes
hells bells
Surf Mats
are getting some ink
(well not ink,
that's not going to move any product,
so that would be crazy)

Surf mats
(along with the rest of the
"alternative craft")
are just ridiculously fun
and there just isn't enough profit in that
to justify

But blogs are
by their nature
very personal
so you don't see that many
shouting the virtues
(with this weeks contest graphic)
thong shoes

Not to say those
good things
I'm wearing
two thirds
of that
right now

But then
so is
half of

Surfer or no

So, if you write a
surf blog
and possibly
more important
if you
a surf blog

Let me say
Thank You
Welcome to the Future

Monday, March 22, 2010


Wine glasses were broken
seeds were planted
and offering were made to the gods
especially Bacchus

The equinox came and went in fine fashion
wheather this bodes well for the upcoming
summer surf seasion
it is too early to tell

Although I missed surfing at Rincon
it was a good weekend

Taking my winter yoga practice up a notch
coaxing myself out of a long winter sleep
lighter fare and more fresh air

Saturday, March 20, 2010


The time has come to plant your seeds
Unless you are in the southern hemisphere
in which case 
it's harvest time!

Either way enjoy the tilt

If the whole thing is confusing here is a good description

Friday, March 19, 2010

Goin' up the country

Regarding yesterdays surf trip

A combo of great, beautiful and  epic

Imagine the most fun you have ever had surfing

then put the fun in an idyllic pastoral setting.

Make the sky extra blue, the hills extra green and the water extra cold

Now you got it.

In yesterdays post I mentioned my general rule about about a two drink max even though yesterdays song selection lyrics explicitly stated that I was going "where the water tastes like wine".

While this is a good point

I think Canned Heat said it best,

"jump in the water and stay drunk all the time"

Canned Heat - Going Up The Country -

I take the position that this doesn't violate the "two drink" rule
because there is only one jump
and of course there would be no driving...
that's what the bus is for

In other news
(or maybe its the same news just continued on)

I will be at the Celestial Synapse Celebration on Saturday
in honor of the Vernal (Spring) Equinox.

The Rincon Invitational is this weekend,
Graham and the Shelter Surf Shop is sending a team.
They are going to have such a blast!
Next year I'm going

Have a nice weekend

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Goin' down the road feeling bad

After driving around LATE last night picking up the kids
(we follow a strict policy of not drinking and driving here at 23B)

I will be off on a bit of a day trip with ThinkMat,

I haven't been in the water for a few days so I am looking forward to getting on the bus.

Some traveling music

The video is kind of funky but the music is spot on!

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

St. Patrick's Day

So it pre dawn and I am cranking out another 23B

Since is St. Patricks Day
(and I have nothing in mind,
sadly my usual condition)
I'm thinking a little of this
a couple of these

and I'm done,
back on the couch 
and I'm watching Sponge Bob in no time

You see friends,
I suffer from the if-Bruce-Brown-didn't-go-there-then-there-must-not-be-surf syndrome.

I know, I know there have been articles in the mags 
surfers with vaguely old country names 
visiting some cold water clime to showcase the new hooded 5-4 mil wetsuits from their sponsors.

But two things
First, I don't read the mags anymore
(well I do check'em at the grocery store when I am supposed to be pushing the cart for my wife
but that's only when she is perusing the meat isle 
(I just can't look at that stuff anymore)) and
Second, everyone knows that all the pictures in the mags now a days were taken by one photog in the 80's and have been endlessly manipulated and artfully photo-shopped ever since
all of it! 
yes it's true
it keeps costs down to a manageable level
and that's good for business
(I kid, er and ing)

So I really didn't think much about surf in Ireland

But then I started looking for suitable Google Images to go with this piece

It turns out combining the North Atlantic storms with a feature rich coastline makes for slab city!

Although I prefer this little beauty

So two things to take away,

surf in the North Atlantic Rim (yes indeed!)



But you already knew that.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Whole lotta shakin' goin' on

This clip was brought to my attention by ThinkMat (thanks, Jon)

Part long board, part short board, part Tom Morey Swizzle

I saw one of these at the Frog House shop in Newport Beach.

I have to say, the longer I looked at it the more sense it made and the more I thought I'd like to give it a go.

Anyone out there ridden one?

More information here at the Global Surf Industries Meyerhoffer page

Today's 23B musical selection today reflects a 4.4 earthquake here in SoCal

Located near Pico Rivera (a suburb of LA) this may have done some damage to the 5 FWY.
The 5, as it is known locally, is a major transportation artery which looks like it's doing it best parking lot imitation while they attempt to repair the damage.

Good Luck out there I'm goin back to bed.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Why is it so dark?

"Who says my surf blog is a surf blog? 
This surf blog is not a surf blog. 
When you can understand that, 
then we can begin to speak of surf blogs"

(With my profound apologies to Master Ryokan, 
who wouldn't care at all)

why is it so dark
funny but it's not that cold
what time is it really

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Friday, March 12, 2010

Ways to know you are a real surfer

There seems to be some confusion so I thought I would point out some sure fire ways to tell

Putting your board on top of the car, not strapping it down and driving away.
A classic.
You can't say you are a real surfer until this happens
and it happens to everyone
Nothing quite beats the sight of your precious shred stick majestically twirling in the wind
that is until in does that first bump on the pavement,
possibly followed by several trucks
That the sight is watched in reverse via your rear view mirror some how intensifies the experience.
I’m not sure this is really what Jimi Hendrix meant but could be.  You never know with Jimi

Getting a new surf craft and having conditions turn to trash for the foreseeable future
I am experiencing a bit of this now as a matter of fact
But the joy that goes with the new craft, the colors, the smells, the hard earned cash disappearing from your wallet...
Photo kiped from Intruder in the Surf  (who just got another new board so I feel no remorse what-so-ever)
You drive that puppy home taking more care than you did with your first born.
The board gets some place of honor where you gaze at its graceful curves for hours awaiting tide and swell to come together in a appropriate first offering / go out.
But then the ocean shuts down completely and the wind turns onshore for weeks
Your first ride consists of standing on your board as it sits on top of your bed while your brother jumps up and down on the bed trying to knock you off.
PS the surf doesn’t come up again until the board slips off the bed and sustains a huge ding which you don’t even bother to patch before the first go out.

Last way to tell if you are a real surfer, possibly advanced
Driving along the coast highway one fine summer day (with boards securely attached) you pull up to the stop light and after bringing your vehicle to a full and complete stop, you turn to gaze lovingly out to see a decent set rolling in.  As you watch, the signal changes, now at this point there are two possible out comes.  If you are just a surfer (or surfers really because your car can be filled with your friends doing the same thing) then some trucker with an air horn will gently bring you back to reality by giving said horn a little beep (said beep will probably make your ears bleed, but hey you are blocking traffic).  Now I said there are two possible outcomes and I know that's true because I have experienced them both. If you are in the presence of GREATNESS, that is a true surfing master, (I once has the pleasure of driving down PCH with Don Rendondo although I heard JJ Moon can pull this off as well) a localized veil comes over the area, and EVERYONE turns to watch the set. Only after the end of the set does everyone snap out of it, just as the light changes and you go on your way. No honking, no bleeding, so cool.

So there you have it, if any of you have any "ways to know..." leave 'em in the comments section.

Have a nice weekend!

Thursday, March 11, 2010

The Story of Stuff

The Film
The Story of Stuff is a 20-minute film that takes viewers on a provocative and eye-opening tour of the real costs of our consumer driven culture—from resource extraction to iPod incineration.

The Story
Annie Leonard, an activist who has spent the past 10 years traveling the globe fighting environmental threats, narrates the Story of Stuff, delivering a rapid-fire, often humorous and always engaging story about “all our stuff—where it comes from and where it goes when we throw it away.”

The Website
The Story of Stuff

My $.02
It's not the stuff, we have to have stuff, what the consumer culture doesn't cultivate is any awareness of where the stuff comes from, the impact it has during it's maufacture, where the stuff goes when we are done with the stuff and the ongoing impact it has if it's incinerated or stuck in a landfill.  I would also venture to say that the ability to distinguish between a good piece of beautifully made custom stuff is over shadowed by the latest, newest, shiny,  "tastes great less filling stuff" and the ever popular desire more, more, more stuff.

Anyway, more stuff to think about.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Who let the fog out?

Well now we have gone an done it
Coordinated human actions have changed the weather patterns in California

During the Academy Awards show a few nights ago, many of us ran to the refrigerator in perfect commercial break synchronization. The huge amounts of cold air escaping from all those units at precisely the same time has mixed with the relatively warm air from the California offshore current zone (cocz) and has created a dense fog bank off the coast.

This has curtailed the current El Nino pattern and moved us back to a fall pattern with a windy and occasionally offshore focus.

Widely scattered reports of people crashing they cars as they speed to local markets to buy Thanksgiving turkeys are unconfirmed.  (I did see someone walk right into a building yesterday though)

Personally, I have a new mat to try out.
I just want the wind, swell, and runoff conditions to clean up enough for a few quick go outs.

No film at eleven.

Tuesday, March 9, 2010


Surfboards are beautiful hydrophilic (water loving) sculptures that their owners can take off the wall and use in daily life

An odd specialty in the arts

But an art it is

Here are some examples,

Steve Pedoflex rubber ducky (found this at Josh Hall's website)
Mr. Hall is a fine shaper in his own right BTW.
More of Steve's fine work at his Pendoflex website

What fun! To say a board is "fun" is some how frowned upon. Which I believe is the stupidest thing I have ever heard.  If all I did was standup I would be ordering one of these for a black ball beater for the summer!!

Jamie Murray boards are great! If you haven't seen his shapes before, check out this soon-to-be Bonzer.

Yet another shaper I would be ordering from even if I had to travel NOTB.

Spend some time at his Head High and Glassy blog. Well worth the time to get some perspective on real surfers riding real boards in real waves.

Greg Liddle has been polishing his hull shapes so long it seems like forever.

After all this time they are perfect.

I check out Kirk Putnam's KP's Round up regularly to see what's the latest and for interesting bits of Americana.

At left (or above depending on where blogger decides to put my photos today)
is the "Burrito Deluxe with Hullapinos".  Now tell me you don't want to grab this, wax it up and take it out for a few quick waves.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Is it Spring yet?

I have been sitting around debating the virtues of different kinds of tomatoes.  Which ones to plant this year.  The always important when to plant decision.  Surfing in between the rains. Trying to avoid the runoff.

Just waiting for the shift between predominantly Northern Hemisphere activity and the more "south facing beach" friendly Southern Hemi action.

 I received this Sean Davey shot from the fine folks at Surfers Path this morning.  Kind of sums up winter in one, OMG! Waimea moment.  Really intense in Blk and Wht. Great shot by Mr. Davey and thanks to the Path for sending it over.

I'm happy that there was a good winter but I'm looking forward to summer and warm water.

Nice bit of work on Andrew Smith's blog Born to Lose.  Check it out in case you missed it. Fish always make me think of summer.

Patagonia Cardiff has some of Dales mats in store and there are been a discussion on mating on their Facebook page.  Here is a link  You may have to be a Facebook "friend" of patty-cardy to see it but that is easily arranged.

My especially hearty congratulations goes out to everyone involved with "The Cove".  Check out their website for all the info and the opportunity to purchase the Oscar winning movie or sound track

Friday, March 5, 2010

Pink Cadillac

Sorry about the rant yesterday

Well not really a rant

maybe a rant-lite

If I was going to rant
it would be more like

“your surfing experience is being hijacked from you then repackaged and sold back to you at a premium”.

Real waves for real people!

Get a mat!

But it's a Friday,

and there's things to do this weekend



Lots to do in SoCal this weekend

More details in my "It must be springtime" post from last week

but Almond’s having a hooty’nanny on Friday

(The Urban Dictionary defines a hooty’nanny as a regular shindig only with a ‘hole lotta hoot and just a little bit of nanny.' Think I’m making this stuff up? Check it out here)

but I digress from the whole “things to do” theme of todays post

Graham at Shelter Surf Shop will be having

an event

(I do not know the mix of hoot nor nanny
at the event,
so I will refrain,
from characterizing it,
as having said properties,
at this time senator.)

But Graham''s parties are always good and you can roam forth street and find interesting things to do and places to eat so its always fun, not to mention the stellar collection of surf boards Graham always has in stock.
This just in from Graham's Facebook post
"14 cases of Primo for Saturday night's shindig at shelter"
Which confirms that the shelter event
will indeed be a shindig

I was driving yesterday and heard a version of this song
at the time
I thought
“this is the greatest song of all time!”
Perhaps a little too much coffee that day...
But that said it’s not a bad song either

Have a nice weekend and I’ll see back here next week!

Cadillac Ranch

Thursday, March 4, 2010

No Snapper just Spangled Perch

They are running a surfing contest at Snapper Rocks

Looks like a ridiculously good place for a surf.  But, (don't tell the mags) I am kind of over the whole contest thing.  You know three turns to the beach, sell some tee shirts, hold the contest surf or not and with the finals always in blown-out afternoon slop, somebody (usually not the surfers) takes home a bag of cash.  So I am not (other than this very fine lineup shot) going to comment.  (Well I guess I just did, but hey, I'm paying myself by the word so...)

Instead here is something quite a bit more unique and more relevant to your Thursday.

"For residents of a small Australian town, their usually mundane conversations about the weather have just become a whole lot more interesting.
That's because in the outback town of Lajamanu it's started raining fish. Yes, fish. Hundreds of them, falling from the sky.
Over the past two days the town's 660 residents have been bombarded with small white fish which have been falling like rain.
Locals say the fish, mostly spangled perch, have even been alive as they hit the floor. Lucky it wasn't crocodiles then.
Meteorologists believe the fish where sucked up by a tornado - which passed over a river some 300 miles away - before being carried through the sky at 40,000 to 50,000 feet.

They then fell like rain on Lajamanu, 400 miles south of Darwin in Australia's Northern Territory, prompting residents to run around throwing them into buckets.
Amazingly it is not the first time the tiny town has seen the freakish 'weather' - this is said to be the third time in recent memory, the previous batterings (sorry) of fish came in 1974 and 2004."

Now isn't that more interesting than the "winners" and "losers", stats and standings?

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Morning ride

A glass breaks in the kitchen and I'm jolted awake in a manner only slightly less annoying that the time our two year old threw up on me. After fetching my wife her slippers and helping to clean up the glass I start my daily routine. Clothes, food, backpack but halfway through packing I realize it's Saturday and I don't have any appointments today. What do the unemployed do on their weekends? They go on bike rides. Of course! So I take my interview clothes out of the bag and replace them with my wetsuit, fins and inflatable surf mat. The bananas and water bottle can stay.

Instead of weaving the skinny tire bike between the cars to arrive at an appointment on time I will be weaving the fat tire bike between the slowly moving moguls consisting of tourists families visiting the beach for the day.

Initially this was just a was to spend less on gas but I have found numerous unknown sand bars that I would have driven right by in the car.  The front rack takes my dripping wetsuit without complaint and riding after surfing extends that delightful endorphin buzz you get after riding the mat. If all goes well I will find a few waves to surf if not I can ride the sea side bike path for miles.

Today the coast is covered in fog. At times it seems like I am the only one on the planet many of the streets are deserted . I peddle on my world an ever changing collection of sights and sounds wrapped in a cloud.

A little farther down the trail the clouds part to reveal two tourists, in the middle of the path, off their bike starring at the limp chair hanging off their rented tandem beach cruiser. While screaming “get out of the middle of the road!” at them was a option I chose to pull over to the side and ask what the problem.

I'm not a bike mechanic and I have only the most primitive of tools but for me part of the beauty of riding is an appreciation and understanding of the basic bicycle machine. The chain wasn't broken and I brought the chain back into alignment with the rest of the drive train. After wishing them a good day I remounted and continued along my way. Hopeful that I had helped someone else have a nice day on the bike and looking forward to enjoying my own ride.

I'm riding one of my “other” bike today, actually my other other other bike. I group my bikes as road bikes, off road bikes or additions to my collection of 1960's Schwinn three speeds. Today it's a Schwinn Breeze day. The road bikes are faster, the MTB's have a wider range of uses but a good Breeze on the bike trail is a thing of beauty! The glide, the steady, floating forward motion. If independence has a tactile feeling its riding a bike. Someday if that feeling isn't there for me I'll make one massive donation to the local charity and move on. But today, after a bit of morning fog, the sun is out and I'm out on the bike having fun.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Just another day at the beach

Imagine you were out for a day at the shore.
A family trip to the beach,
because you never went anywhere without your family.
When suddenly you were abducted and put into a lifeless cement cage.
Never to see your family again and
with several of your senses you use forever blocked
by the bland monotonous cage you were kept in.

That's pretty much what happens to captured orcas

An orca can travel easily 100 nautical miles every day, and to put them in a pool where they swim around in circles continually, and kept away from their families, "takes a toll on their brains," said Jim Borrowman, who has worked with whales for 30 years and runs Stubbs Island Whale Watching on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

"The SeaWorld system is the best of all seaquaria in the world, but if I was an orca, that would be the last place I'd want to live," said Dr. Jeffrey Ventre. "They are in what is essentially an acoustically dead cement pond, compared to the vibrancy of the ocean."

I love to see the whales at Sea World but it's inappropriate and cruel to keep them in pools. After these whales are captured and domesticated they have lost their healthy fear of humans and have been separated from the family unit they would otherwise spend most of their life with.  To reintroduce a captive whale to the open ocean would prove fatal. They need to be returned to live out their days in "sea pens" where, while not totally free, they can at least feel the tide and hear the many songs of the sea.  The least we can do

For more information see the links below

CNN story

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals 

If you would like to see whales in the wild or learn more about Orca's

Stubbs Island Whale Watching

Monterey Bay Whale Watch

Monday, March 1, 2010

Ho Daddy

Since 23B is an international phenomenon many of you are no doubt interested in our take on the recent tsunami.

Since the “ring of fire” creates many of these natural disasters we are well practiced in the appropriate response to tsunami warnings.

As soon as the beaches we were officially closed we all ran down to take a look

I brought along the handi cam to record the following events for posterity.

No one likes the perv that wears the bun huggers so we put him up on a hill with binoculars to look for waves.

When the call came down,
everyone started dancing in a circle,
which you should know is the
NOAA recommended safety protocol for a tsunami warning

Whilst dancing, everyone remained calm
(well except for some unexplained craziness around 2:23)
and listened to the calm explanation of tsunami factoids
by a man who would spend several seasons
living on an uncharted desert isle

Our dancing conjured up the ghost of one Miklos Dora
(around 2:40, orange trunks with white waste band)
which I took as a very positive sign

At the end of the clip (2:50)
everyone decided to charge it!

Sadly no pictures of me as I was busy, both holding the camera and blowing up my mat.


Satire and farce aside the destruction from the 8.8 earthquake in Chile is massive!

Go to Save the Waves Coalition if you would like to make a donation to assist in the relief efforts.

Photos from Chile Surf Adventures