Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Here is a link to the rest of Lance Smith's Anything but Three photos
In my defense, I am a little lazy and usually have a beard or a mustache going.
The almost constant state of hoodedness is due to my right ear being 98 percent closed (ear exostosis). I have had the left one drilled twice and it's no picnic.
No word on Bigfoot's mat and fin preference.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Jon showed up too late to catch a surf but brought his experiment fin shapes and his new 4th Gear Flyer!
If you like to ride a fish and you go to heaven in the end, this is what you see
Andy standing there saying "Sure you can ride my Lis!"
PS I couldn't get shots of the other fishes (Lis and Frye) cause my hands were shaking so bad! (the presence of greatness you know)
PSS Andy also rides a mean surfmat and we had a great time!
Tom Threinen showed up for a surf all the way from Nevada.
I didn't get near enough time to talk to him and no pictures but this is exactly what he looks like!
Image from Tom's website is part of the Don Redondo Project
AB3 09 Haiku
Many preaty fishes
laying with their fins up
wanting to be ridden
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Anything But Three is happening on Sunday so stop by and say "hi". Click on the link for details and directions
Deeper Visions II
The series of Shelter parties continues this Saturday March 28th from 6-10 pm.
Over 30 artists and 2 great bands…. all working together to help us realize what sight lies beyond what our eyes can see..
New and selected works by:
The Manson Brothers
Curated by: Marialidia Marcotulli
Live Music by:
Franklin For Short
Tall Tales and the Silver Lining
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
I stumbled over the Rick Griffin website the other day, and as usual whenever I run into his work, I think back to the first time I saw this drawing or that poster.
Rick Griffin (June 18, 1944 - August 18, 1991) was an American artist and one of the leading designers of psychedelic posters in the 1960s. He was also a contributor to theunderground comix movement whose work appeared regularly in Zap Comix. Griffin was closely identified with the Grateful Dead, having designed some of their best known posters and record jackets. He was also known for his work within the surfing subculture, including his comic strip about a surfer named "Murphy".
Griffin was born near Palos Verdes amidst the surfing culture of southern California. After attending high school, he worked on the staff of Surfer magazine where he created his surfing comic strip. In Los Angeles, Griffin met a group of artists and musicians known as the Jook Savages and participated in the Watts Acid Test held by Ken Kesey.
After seeing the psychedelic rock posters that were being designed by Stanley Mouse and Alton Kelly, Griffin and the Jook Savages decided to move to San Francisco in the fall of 1966, where he designed posters in the living room of his home on Elsie Street in the Bernal Heights district. His first art exhibition was for the Jook Savages, but organizers for the Human Be-In saw his work and asked him to design a poster for their event in January 1967. Chet Helms was also impressed by Griffin's work and asked him to design posters for the Family Dog parties at the Avalon Ballroom, which led Griffin to create concert posters for The Charlatans. Eventually, a poster distribution agency by the name of Berkeley Bonaparte hired Griffin, where he teamed up with the leading poster artists of the 1960s.
In the 1970's he converted to Christianity. He published The Illustrated Book of St. John, a retelling of the Gospel of John with his unique illustrations. He also produced album art for Maranatha! Music, a Christian record label.
In 1991, Griffin was killed in a motorcycle accident in Petaluma, California.
Monday, March 23, 2009
To continue where I left off with the Surfing post.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Well Spring has sprung as they say here in the northern hemisphere and I have to say I hasn't happened a moment too soon!
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
I posted a question over at the erBB the other day.
Would you rather do a big carve or get a tube ride?
The results were something like 9 to 1 in favor of the tube.
So this got me thinking about the surf craft I see people ride and if it truly helped the average surfer achieve their surfing goals.
Here are a few things you might do
If you don't already, get some fins and dive in.
The best thing to do to expand on your water and wave knowledge is to spend more time in the water.
One of several unfortunate side effects of surf leashes is that surfers don't swim for their boards anymore. Their swimming skills suffer considerably and they don't learn to body surf as an integral part of the surfing experience.
You might even get to be President one day!
Ride a variety of surf craft.
The variety will do you good.
Hand planes can be made for a few dollars or less and gives you a chance to shape some rails.
Boogie boards can be had for relatively cheap (except for the high end pro models) and should be in every surfers quiver. Black ball go outs, gifting a stoked grom, teaching someone to surf. These things have allowed more people to have more fun than anything. At the Pipeline, the surfers that consistently ride the farthest back do it on a body board.
There has been enough said, printed and photographed about Alaia's recently that you probably know that this blast from the past is the latest retro fad. But the truth is in the surfing and these things are fast fun and challenging!
I ride a surf mat more regularly than anything and for me, it's the best all around surf craft ever! You can get one of the Intex mats for 10 bucks to try it out. If you decide you like it, the good ones are worth every penny!
OK, sometimes the view from the mat looks like this!
Thinking about how different designs work in different conditions expands your thinking and magnifies your stoke!
Next time I'll talk about surfboards.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
As I sit here writing this I am luxuriating in that combination of exhaustion and endorphin high that only a good surf session brings.
Monday, March 9, 2009
You can't be in a hurry.
There is a fair amount of unlearning that goes with the mat. You need to get past the “this will be easy, it's just a mat” stage. Did your last board dramatically change shape during the ride and utilize variable inflation?
You have to be prepared to devote your whole life to your practice.
I used to think in terms of “getting it wired” etc. Now I think that learning to surf with the mat will take the rest of my life and more. I am really happy about that by the way, it means there is always something new to discover.
It's not a matter of spending money, you have to spend your life.
Yes, you need a mat, and a good pair of fins is very helpful but you have to spend time in the water.
There is a great deal to learn and you can't do it quickly.
I know guys who can get a board wired in like three waves, two if they get some good waves. Then they go out and get a new board.
The mat takes time because you aren't riding the mat, you are working with the mat to explore the wave and waves are infinitely complex.
Mat riding isn't something that can be put into words. You have to practice before you can understand.
“Jet propelled body surfing”. That is as close as it gets and it doesn't even scratch the surface.
The mat teaches us to be natural.
Riding a mat doesn't really have any standard set of maneuvers. Yes, you can do bottom turns, it's great in the tube and it's bat-out-of-hell fast but it all really depends on the wave. The wave leads and you try follow along in a complementary way. The best times are often had when you just relax and marvel at the wave unfolding in front of you.
You can't force things, including practice.
The biggest advances will be made when you aren't trying. I have had sessions that I thought were going to be “marginal” turn into major turning points. This will have you spending weeks afterward trying to figure out what just happened and how to do it again.
Understanding is something that happens naturally.
Eventually you get it or at least a glimpse of it and you'll want to rush out to find someone to tell. Unfortunately when you find someone, the things you say don't capture it at all. But that's ok.
It's different for everyone.
How could it be any other way.
The main thing is is to reduce your desires and quiet your mind.
Take off, turn in, and hold on!
Practice takes a long time and you have to stay healthy.
You'll spend a lot of time in the water swimming. This constitutes one of the best all around exercise workouts ever. You should combine it with some yoga and some attention to your diet. I would expect mat surfers to live longer lives. That's good, there are lots of things to do.
About this blog post. I have been trying to think of something to say here that would be of a more instructional nature. I don't really think anyone can teach you how to surf but I wanted to try to come up with something. I had been working on it for a while and had made no progress. So I gave up and put the whole idea on the back burner. I got all of the bold lines from a book I am reading that has nothing to do with surfing, every sentence seemed to speak directly to the mat riding experience and I just wanted to pass it along.