/*23 Breaths: August 2008*/

Thursday, August 28, 2008

August Shelter Party - Goin' Big - Under the Sun


Shelter Party August 30th: Under The Sun and Goin' Big



Come Join the gang at Shelter Surf Shop on Saturday August 30th at 8pm for a gathering of the tribes!

Film, Art, Music and Literature!

Here's the Lowdown:

Film and Art: Under The Sun by Cyrus Sutton.

Scope the film trailer here:



Literature: Book Signing with Kevin O'Sullivan for his book on the Hayday of Gotcha entitled "Goin' Big"

Music: TBD

Refreshments: Courtesy of The Pike Bar and Grill.

Be There or Be a quadratic shape with four equal sides!!

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

It's Tuesday, right?

I mentioned in a previous post that the 2008 Bodysurfing Championships was being held last weekend in Oceanside.

I didn't make it due to a combination of factors but here is some video from last years event.



If anyone out there attended this year's event drop me a line.

I would like to know how things went.

Kind of slow here as summer sort of turns into fall.

Which is to say we have June gloom and south winds.

To be honest, I don't know what day of the week it is let alone what month it might be.

The surf is expected to pick up later in the week.

And that's all that matters.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

The importance of training

I can't overstate the importance of training and being in shape.

I take it very seriously and would like to pass on some of the techniques that have worked for me.

This being an Olympic year the importance of starting early can't be over emphasized.

I started the summer by laying on the couch most of the month of July watching the Tour de France.





A light dinner then three hours TV.

EVERY NIGHT WITHOUT EXCEPTION.

I warmed up with a half an hour of highlights of the stage from the previous day.

Followed that up with two hours watching a bunch of possibly juiced up guys peddling through some of the best scenery anywhere.

My cool down regime consists of previewing the next days course and reviewing team and individual standings.

Hydration is very important (especially during the summer months) so make sure you drink plenty of fluids.

I have been favoring the Pope Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. (6.99 at Trader Joe's)

Now there wasn't a lot of recovery time between the Tour and the Olympics this year.

This can be a problem because your body doesn't have time to fully integrate all the training you have done previously.

If you have an injury at this point (heaven forbid) you may be out of the metals.



The big day arrives, the opening ceremony, the march into your media center, the traditional replacing of the batteries in the remote (if you can find it).

The crunch time begins.

10 am to 6 pm everyday!

Following that it's the 8 to midnight "prime time" show.

"Prime time" in this case means now we are going to show you the stuff you wanted to see all along.

You need to have the energy left for a kick every night for the final 10 to midnight section of the program.

If you were dining on salads and eating nutritiously during the previous month now is your chance to eat like a hog.

After all McDonald's is the official restaurant of the Olympics!

So go nuts.

On a personal note my Olympics has been up and down.

There are times when I've bonked on the couch for several events but so far I have been able to rally back.

We aren't at the finish line yet so it's too soon to tell.

Good luck!

PS Coming soon my DVD on how you too can watch TV like an Olympian!

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Another day in paradise

Surfed the shoulder high south swell that is the predominate direction for this time of year.

Lots of bait fish in the water today.

Not long after I noticed the fish the dolphins showed up.

They had a go with the fish and rode a couple of sets.

I always like to see any sea life in the water, it lets me pretend that the water isn't as polluted as it probably is.

One of those warm sunny days that the water look so good that I am taken in by the beauty of it all and just let the wave pass by un-riden.

Yes crazy, I know.

Also tried some shorter fins today.

I am always fiddling with something, but I think I will stick with the duck feet.

Looking forward to Sliding Liberia tonight

Well that's all for now, I have to see a man about a job...

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

It's been a good summer


Brazil by Ben DeCamp

Greetings all,

back at the keyboard once again.

It's been a good summer this year.

Not too much "June Gloom" and most days have been surf-able.

Went out at a local well known secret spot this morning.

I have surfed there for years but try to surf elsewhere since the run off is so bad.
Whenever I'm there I run into Kaser.

Today's run in was almost literal and he caught me tube dodging again.

I was teasing him about doing cover shots for "Surfmat Monthly".

Someone should really give the guy a job doing water photography.

If you are a regular reader of his blog you know he loves the water shot.

I did my best to run right over him but he held his ground,

a good trait in a photog.

(One of these days I need to mention to him that I am totally blind in the water and exercise little to no control on the wave.)

Friday, August 1, 2008

eleven and a half breaths

Just a quick note before I am out the door again.

First an apology for there being so few posts of late.

(you should see my in box!)

But its been a good July swell wise (not big but decent)

and when I get home from the beach and just can't raise my arms up to the keyboard

So just a few notes from the front and I am back at it.

The plug popped out of my mat the other day.

I was scratching for the outside and almost made it past the first wave of the set.

The mat had lost a lot of air and before I had a chance to add some more a NICE peak

popped up and I had to go.

The take off was a little sketchy, more of a swim in than a paddle in.

But then the this under, under inflated mat took off!

So the last few days I have been experimenting.

Definitely a trade off between paddling and speed but worth it.

So try it and let me know what you discover.

Start off with low inflation and let out some more.

Keep catching waves to dial it in.